Chaumet
Corporate brand
UnclaimedA Parisian high-jewelry and watchmaking house founded in 1780, known for imperial heritage, tiaras, natural motifs and Place Vendôme craftsmanship.
Last updated October 14, 2026
Overview
Chaumet is a French luxury jewelry and watchmaking house based at 12 Place Vendôme in Paris. Founded in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot, the business became closely associated with Napoleon Bonaparte after Nitot was appointed an official jeweler to the imperial court. Nitot and his son, François Regnault Nitot, created ceremonial and personal jewels for Napoleon, Joséphine de Beauharnais and Marie-Louise of Austria, including pieces connected with imperial weddings, court celebrations and the birth of Napoleon’s son. This early history established the themes of royalty, ceremony, nature and symbolism that continue to shape the brand. After the fall of Napoleon’s empire, the business passed to Jean-Baptiste Fossin and later to the Morel family. During the nineteenth century, the house served aristocratic and royal clients in France and Britain. Its London activity under Jean-Valentin Morel received the patronage of Queen Victoria, while the Paris house developed a reputation for romantic, Renaissance-inspired and naturalist jewelry. In 1885, Joseph Chaumet married into the Morel family and took control of the company, giving the house the name by which it is known today. Chaumet moved its workshops and boutique to 12 Place Vendôme in 1907. The address became the center of its design, manufacturing and client activities and remains one of the defining elements of the brand. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Chaumet explored Renaissance forms, Japanese artistic influence, Islamic architectural geometry, Art Nouveau floral motifs and the emerging Art Deco vocabulary. Tiaras, aigrettes, hair ornaments and other transformable jewels became important specialties. Under Marcel Chaumet, who succeeded Joseph in 1928, the house participated in the 1925 Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts and became associated with the geometric, highly colored style of the Art Deco period. The business experienced significant disruption during the 1930s and the Second World War, but it re-emerged in the post-war period with a more contemporary interpretation of Parisian femininity. Jacques and Pierre Chaumet became executive directors in 1958. The company also expanded its watchmaking interests, including the acquisition of Breguet in 1970, although Breguet was later separated from Chaumet’s ownership structure. In the 1970s and 1980s, the house combined diamonds and colored stones with yellow gold and developed designs such as the Lien motif, which became one of its enduring signatures. Chaumet entered a severe financial crisis in the 1980s. Losses connected with diamond purchasing and resale, together with a high level of liabilities, led to bankruptcy in 1987. Jacques and Pierre Chaumet were later convicted in France of offenses including fraudulent bankruptcy and illegal banking activities. Investcorp acquired the business after the bankruptcy and undertook a restructuring. Chaumet returned to profitability before being acquired by LVMH in October 1999. Under LVMH, Chaumet has operated as a global jewelry and watch brand while retaining its Parisian identity and its Place Vendôme workshop. The company has expanded particularly in Asia, including China, and has developed collections such as Joséphine, Liens, Bee My Love and Attrape-moi. The house combines high jewelry, bridal jewelry, everyday fine jewelry and gem-set watches. Its watch movements are produced in Switzerland, while its Paris workshop maintains traditional jewelry-making practices. The workshop uses hand fabrication, setting, polishing and model-making, including nickel-silver mock-ups that allow clients and designers to assess proportions before a jewel is produced in precious materials. Chaumet’s modern positioning links historic court jewelry with a lighter, more symbolic approach to luxury. The bee, the link, the tiara and the natural world recur throughout its collections. The brand serves clients seeking engagement rings, wedding jewelry, collectible hig…
History
Chaumet was established in Paris in 1780 by Marie-Étienne Nitot, who had trained under Aubert, a jeweler associated with Marie-Antoinette. The business initially served aristocratic clients and expanded after the French Revolution. In 1804, Nitot became an official jeweler to Napoleon I. With his son François Regnault Nitot, he produced jewels for Napoleon’s marriages to Joséphine de Beauharnais and Marie-Louise of Austria, as well as important court objects such as the coronation sword and ceremonial diamond jewelry. François Regnault Nitot continued the business after his father’s death in 1809. Napoleon’s defeat and exile in 1815 led him to withdraw, and the company was sold to foreman Jean-Baptiste Fossin. Fossin and his son Jules developed romantic, Renaissance-inspired and naturalist jewelry for French royalty and aristocratic patrons. Following the 1848 revolution, the company’s French activity slowed and a London branch was established under Jean-Valentin Morel and his son Prosper. Morel received a royal warrant from Queen Victoria and became known for combining hardstone, enamel and historic decorative techniques. Joseph Chaumet took control in 1885 after marrying Prosper Morel’s daughter. The house continued making tiaras and ceremonial pieces while incorporating Japanese influence, Islamic architectural forms and Art Nouveau motifs. In 1907, the boutique and workshops moved to 12 Place Vendôme, an address that remains central to the brand. Marcel Chaumet succeeded Joseph in 1928 and guided the house during the Art Deco era. Chaumet took part in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs and produced geometric jewelry, colorful gem combinations, hair ornaments and accessories reflecting the changing styles of the 1920s and 1930s. The company closed during the difficult years surrounding the Second World War and reopened in 1944. In the post-war period, it adapted to contemporary Parisian fashion and cultivated a reputation for elegant, imaginative jewelry. Jacques and Pierre Chaumet became executive directors in 1958. The company acquired Breguet in 1970 and maintained a substantial interest in watchmaking. The Lien ring, introduced in 1977, established a linked-circle motif that later developed into multiple collections and remains one of Chaumet’s best-known design signatures. The 1980s brought a renewed interest in precious objects and distinctive colored-stone combinations, supported by artistic director René Morin. However, the company’s diamond trading activities suffered after a global fall in diamond prices. Chaumet filed for bankruptcy in 1987 with very substantial liabilities. The brothers who led the company were subsequently convicted of fraudulent bankruptcy, breach of trust and illegal banking activities. After the bankruptcy, Bahrain-based investment firm Investcorp acquired the house and reorganized the business. Chaumet returned to profitability in the late 1990s and was purchased by LVMH in October 1999. Under LVMH, the house expanded its international distribution, particularly in Asia, while preserving its Paris workshop and design identity. The modern portfolio includes high jewelry, fine jewelry, bridal collections and watches. Chaumet has also used exhibitions to communicate its history, including the Imperial Splendors presentation at Beijing’s Forbidden City in 2017. In 2024, Charles Leung became chief executive. The house continues to draw on imperial jewels, tiaras, bees, links and natural forms while operating as part of LVMH’s global luxury portfolio.
- 2024
Charles Leung becomes chief executive
[1]LVMH appointed Charles Leung, previously associated with FRED, to lead the house.
- 2011
Responsible Jewellery Council certification
[1]Chaumet received certification relating to responsible business, ethical sourcing and human-rights practices.
- 1999
LVMH acquires Chaumet
[1]LVMH purchased Chaumet after the house had been restructured under Investcorp.
- 1987
Chaumet files for bankruptcy
[1]The house entered bankruptcy after losses related to diamond trading and falling market prices.
- 1977
The Lien ring is created
[1]René Morin created the linked-circle ring that became the foundation of Chaumet’s Lien family.
- 1970
Chaumet acquires Breguet
[1]The company expanded its watchmaking interests through the acquisition of Breguet.
- 1925
Chaumet participates in the Paris decorative arts exhibition
[1]The house participated in the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs, reinforcing its role in the Art Deco movement.
- 1907
Chaumet moves to 12 Place Vendôme
[1]The boutique and workshops were established at the Paris address that remains the center of the house.
- 1885
Joseph Chaumet takes control
[1]Joseph Chaumet assumed leadership after marrying into the Morel family and gave the house its modern name.
- 1815
The business passes to Jean-Baptiste Fossin
[1]After the fall of Napoleon’s empire, the Nitot family sold the business to its foreman.
Showing the 10 most recent.
Products and positioning
French high luxury jewelry and watchmaking with imperial and Place Vendôme heritage, emphasizing refined craftsmanship, symbolic motifs, transformable designs and a blend of historic references with contemporary wearability.
Fine jewelry · 2010
Joséphine
Introduced in 2010, Joséphine draws on the tiaras, diadems and aigrettes associated with Joséphine de Beauharnais. The collection commonly uses pear-shaped stones, sweeping settings and asymmetric compositions to reinterpret court jewelry for rings, earrings, pendants and other contemporary pieces.
Fine jewelry · 1977
Liens
Liens is built around the idea of a connection or link. Its roots reach back to a ring created in 1977, while later versions introduced crossed links, diamond pavé and yellow, white and rose gold. The collection includes rings, bracelets, necklaces and other jewelry designed for layering or everyday wear.
Fine jewelry and bridal jewelry
Bee My Love
Bee My Love uses the bee and honeycomb as central design references. Hexagonal structures evoke a beehive, while the bee connects the collection to Napoleon and to Chaumet’s historic symbolic vocabulary. Rings are particularly suited to stacking and are offered in multiple gold colors, with selected pieces set with diamonds.
Fine jewelry · 2007
Attrape-moi...si tu m'aimes
Launched in 2007, Attrape-moi...si tu m'aimes is inspired by spiders, webs and bees. Its designs interpret the tension between geometric webs and organic insects through necklaces, rings, earrings and other jewels, combining playful storytelling with precious materials.
High jewelry · 2012
12 Vendôme
The 12 Vendôme collection was created as a tribute to the house’s Paris address and its historical design vocabulary. It includes high-jewelry pieces and tiaras that reference different periods of Chaumet’s history. Several pieces are transformable, allowing necklaces, bracelets and tiara elements to be rearranged.
Jewelry watch · 1998
Class One
Class One was introduced in 1998 as a jewelry-oriented diving watch. Over time, the line combined sporty construction with diamond, sapphire and ruby decoration, creating a bridge between functional watch design and Chaumet’s gem-setting expertise.
Men's watch · 2003
Dandy
Introduced in 2003, Dandy is a men’s watch collection inspired by artistic, literary and fashion-conscious dandies. Its dial, movement plate and case back may use colorful striping or contrasting finishes, with later variants such as Dandy Arty emphasizing a more expressive aesthetic.
Jewelry watch · 1995
Khesis
Khesis is a cuff-style jewelry watch introduced in 1995. Its rice-grain links and square face create a bracelet-like silhouette, prioritizing the appearance of a jeweled object while retaining a watch display.
Controversies
1991
Convictions of Jacques and Pierre Chaumet
The brothers who led the company were convicted of fraudulent bankruptcy, breach of trust and illegal banking activities involving high-interest accounts. Their sentences were later reduced on appeal.
1987
Chaumet bankruptcy
Chaumet collapsed financially after losses associated with diamond purchasing and resale, compounded by a worldwide decline in diamond prices.
Marketing campaigns
- 2017Imperial Splendors
China
Chaumet presented a heritage and jewelry exhibition at Beijing’s Forbidden City, using imperial history and archival pieces to communicate the house’s cultural identity to Chinese audiences.
Outcome. Heritage and cultural positioning initiative
Brand decisions
2024
Appointment of Charles LeungStrategyBackground
LVMH changed the leadership of the house as Chaumet continued developing its international jewelry and watch business.
Action taken
Charles Leung, formerly chief executive of FRED, was appointed chief executive of Chaumet.
2014
More accessible Liens watchesProduct launchBackground
The Liens motif had long been associated with Chaumet jewelry, and the house sought to apply it to a wider watch audience.
Action taken
Chaumet introduced a more accessible range of Liens watches.
Aftermath
The initiative broadened the use of a core brand symbol beyond high jewelry.
2012
12 Vendôme high-jewelry collectionProduct launchBackground
Chaumet used its Place Vendôme address and historical archives as the organizing concept for a collection shown during the Biennale des Antiquaires.
Action taken
The house introduced twelve high-jewelry pieces, including four tiaras, with several designed to transform into different forms.
Aftermath
The collection reinforced Chaumet’s positioning in high jewelry and its emphasis on historical continuity and transformability.
2007
Premiers Liens and Attrape-moi collectionsProduct launchBackground
Chaumet sought to extend recognizable historical motifs into contemporary fine jewelry with broader everyday and symbolic appeal.
Action taken
The house developed the Premiers Liens expression of the link motif and launched the spider- and bee-inspired Attrape-moi...si tu m'aimes collection.
Aftermath
The link, bee and nature themes became recurring elements of the modern product portfolio.
1999
LVMH acquisitionM&ABackground
Following bankruptcy and restructuring under Investcorp, Chaumet required a stable long-term owner with access to a global luxury distribution and brand-management platform.
Action taken
LVMH acquired Chaumet and integrated it into its watches and jewelry portfolio.
Aftermath
The house retained its Parisian identity while expanding internationally, especially through growth in Asian markets.
Recent events
- 2024
Charles Leung appointed chief executive of Chaumet[1]
Leadership change
LVMH appointed Charles Leung, formerly chief executive of FRED, to lead Chaumet.
- 2017
Chaumet presents Imperial Splendors exhibition in Beijing[1]
Campaign
The house presented a heritage exhibition at Beijing’s Forbidden City, connecting its imperial history with contemporary jewelry and watchmaking.
- 2011
Chaumet receives Responsible Jewellery Council certification[1]
Regulation
The Responsible Jewellery Council certified Chaumet for practices covering ethical, social and environmental conduct and respect for human rights.
- 1999
LVMH acquires Chaumet[1]
M&A
LVMH acquired Chaumet from Investcorp, bringing the house into its international luxury watches and jewelry portfolio.
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