Glycine Watch

Glycine is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1914 by Eugène Meylan in Biel. Known for high-quality mechanical watches, especially aviation timepieces like the Airman series. The brand was acquired by Invicta Watch Group in 2016.

Eugène Meylan founded La Glycine in Biel/Bienne in 1914. In 1916, watchmakers Piccola and Joffrette became co-owners, and the business adopted a longer corporate name. The company was sold in 1922 to Ferdinand Engel and George Flury and continued developing watches with serviceable, interchangeable components. Its name refers to wisteria, called fleur de glycine in French, a choice associated with the floral design vocabulary of the Jugendstil period and with the plant's ability to grow in varied conditions. Glycine's early growth included pocket watches and women's watches, but its technical reputation expanded in the 1930s. Meylan, no longer directly affiliated with Glycine, established Automatic E.M.S.A. and patented a modular self-winding mechanism. Glycine collaborated with that company in 1930 to produce automatic watches on a mass-production basis. In 1942, Glycine's in-house movement was acquired by ASUAG, while ASUAG's resources and Glycine's watchmaking expertise contributed to development of an early bidirectional winding rotor. During the Second World War, Glycine also supplied watches to the German army's land forces. The post-war period produced the technical and commercial developments most closely associated with the brand. Glycine introduced the Airman in 1953 after consultation with the United States Air Force. Its 24-hour dial, date display and lockable rotating 24-hour bezel provided simultaneous reading of two time zones. In 1959, Hans Ulrich Klingenberg developed Glycine's vacuum-sealed case, designed to reduce condensation and prolong lubricant life. The case patent was filed in 1959 and granted in 1961. The Airman gained visibility in aviation and spaceflight. Pete Conrad wore one during Gemini 5 in 1965 and Gemini 11 in 1966; during the latter mission, the watch was exposed to space while Conrad conducted or supported an extravehicular activity. In 1967, Glycine introduced the Airman SST in a relationship with Boeing. Its tonneau case, orange dial and internal rotating bezel reflected the era's enthusiasm for supersonic aviation. The 1970s quartz crisis forced Glycine to diversify. The company produced quartz and LED watches, with some digital products enabled by the Ditronic collaboration. In 1984, Hans Brechbühler purchased the company. Katharina Brechbühler joined in 1992, and Glycine launched its first website in 1996. In 2000, the company introduced the Airman 7, a four-time-zone model developed for pilots and travellers. Katharina became sole owner in 2005 and shifted emphasis away from quartz toward mechanical watches. Following Hans Brechbühler's death in 2010, Katharina sold Glycine to Altus Uhren Holding AG, remaining involved in design. Under Altus, Glycine reintroduced a smaller original-style Airman case through the Airman No. 1 and produced an Airman anniversary model. Invicta Watch Group acquired Glycine in 2016. Invicta stated that the brand would remain independent while receiving support in marketing and distribution. Management remained substantially continuous until Daniele Andreatta became managing director in 2019. Glycine continues to draw on Airman aviation heritage and Combat sports-watch design while operating as part of the Invicta group.

1. 2016Invicta acquisition

   Invicta Watch Group acquired Glycine.

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2. 2000Airman 7 introduced

   Glycine launched a four-time-zone Airman model aimed particularly at pilots in the United States.

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3. 1984Brechbühler ownership begins

   Hans Brechbühler acquired Glycine.

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4. 1967Airman SST launched

   Glycine introduced the Airman SST in association with Boeing and the era of supersonic transport.

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5. 1965Airman associated with Gemini 5

   Astronaut Pete Conrad wore a Glycine Airman during the Gemini 5 mission.

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6. 1959Vacuum-sealed case developed

   Hans Ulrich Klingenberg developed Glycine's vacuum-sealed case system to improve resistance to condensation and reduce service needs.

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7. 1953Airman introduced

   Glycine launched its aviation-oriented dual-time watch with a 24-hour display and lockable rotating bezel.

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8. 1930Early mass-produced automatic watches

   Glycine collaborated with Automatic E.M.S.A. on watches using Eugène Meylan's modular self-winding mechanism.

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9. 1914La Glycine founded in Biel/Bienne

   Eugène Meylan established the watch company that became Glycine Watch SA.

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Swiss heritage watchmaker focused on functional mechanical watches, aviation history, dual-time displays, military durability and dive-watch capability.

• AirmanAviation mechanical watch1953

  Glycine's signature aviation line, introduced in 1953. The original concept combined a 24-hour dial, date display and lockable rotating 24-hour bezel so that wearers could track two time zones. The Airman became associated with military and commercial aviation, international travel and the Gemini space programme. Later versions have retained the dual-time identity while varying case sizes, movements and dial executions.

• Airman SSTAviation mechanical watch1967

  Introduced in 1967 through a relationship with Boeing, the Airman SST was inspired by supersonic transport aircraft. It used a tonneau-shaped case, an orange dial and an internal rotating bezel. Collectors often distinguish examples by their bright orange dials, which reflect the period's futuristic aviation design language.

• Airman 7Multi-time-zone mechanical watch2000

  Launched in 2000, the Airman 7 extended Glycine's time-zone concept to four time zones. It was developed with pilots and long-distance travellers in mind, particularly users needing to track the four principal time zones of the contiguous United States. The model reinforced the Airman family as Glycine's central technical and commercial platform.

• CombatMilitary and dive-style watch

  Combat is Glycine's sports-watch family, associated with robust cases, military styling and, in some versions, dive-watch functionality. It complements the aviation-oriented Airman by presenting the brand's tool-watch approach for land and underwater use. The family has included both mechanical and other movement configurations across different periods.

• Historical LED watchesDigital quartz watch

  During the quartz crisis, Glycine produced quartz watches including LED-display models. These watches were enabled in part by Ditronic, a collaboration among Swiss watchmakers seeking to respond to the lower prices and greater accuracy of battery-powered quartz products.

• 2019Winged crown logo disputeOther

  Glycine added wings to its crown logo in 2015 to emphasize its aviation history. Giorgio Armani challenged the design, arguing that it could be confused with Armani's eagle logo.

  What changed. The Bern Commercial Court initially ruled for Armani. Glycine appealed, and the Swiss Federal Supreme Court overturned the lower-court decision, allowing Glycine to use the winged logo.

  Aftermath. Despite prevailing on appeal, Glycine returned to its earlier crown logo without wings later in 2019.

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• 2016Sale to Invicta Watch GroupM&A

  Glycine had previously passed from Brechbühler ownership to Altus Uhren Holding AG in 2010. Invicta Watch Group subsequently acquired the brand.

  What changed. Invicta purchased Glycine for an undisclosed amount and stated that the Swiss watchmaker would preserve its independence while receiving assistance with marketing and distribution.

  Aftermath. Glycine continued operating under its established brand identity, with a later leadership change in 2019.

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• 2019Swiss Federal Supreme Court clears Glycine winged crown logo

  The Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland overturned a Bern Commercial Court ruling concerning Giorgio Armani's objection to Glycine's winged crown logo, allowing Glycine to use the disputed design.

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• 2019Daniele Andreatta appointed managing director

  Invicta appointed Daniele Andreatta to lead Glycine as managing director.

  Leadership change
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• 2016Invicta Watch Group acquires Glycine

  Invicta Watch Group purchased Glycine for an undisclosed amount and said the Swiss brand would retain operational independence while benefiting from broader marketing and distribution support.

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1. Glycine Watch
2. Glycine official website