Burberry

Corporate brand

A British luxury fashion brand best known for trench coats, weather-resistant outerwear, signature checks, and a modern interpretation of British style.

Last updated October 22, 2026

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Overview

Burberry is a British luxury fashion brand established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry and headquartered in London. It began as a practical clothing and outdoor-wear business and developed a reputation for protective garments, technical fabrics, and clothing suited to the British climate. The introduction of gabardine in 1879 was a formative moment: the tightly woven, water-resistant and breathable fabric gave the company a distinctive technical foundation and helped establish its authority in outerwear. The trench coat is Burberry’s defining product. Developed from military outerwear during the First World War, it later became a civilian garment and an enduring luxury-fashion icon. The design is associated with details such as a double-breasted front, storm protection, belt construction, and military-inspired hardware, although contemporary versions vary considerably in materials, proportions, and styling. Burberry’s check pattern, used prominently as a lining and on scarves from the twentieth century onward, became another major brand asset. The Equestrian Knight logo, registered as a trademark in the early twentieth century, has also served as a recurring symbol of the house. The brand’s early reputation was strengthened by associations with exploration, aviation, outdoor activity, and British military clothing. Burberry supplied garments for polar expeditions and aviation milestones, reinforcing an identity based on protection, endurance, and British ingenuity. During the twentieth century, the business expanded beyond outerwear into menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, scarves, bags, footwear, eyewear, beauty, and fragrance. International licensing, especially in Europe and Asia, extended its reach but also created challenges involving consistency, distribution, and brand control. A major corporate transformation began in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Under Rose Marie Bravo and later Angela Ahrendts, Burberry was repositioned as a global luxury house rather than a broadly distributed outerwear label. The company strengthened direct retail, reclaimed or consolidated selected licensed operations, reduced the prominence of the check on some products, and invested heavily in fashion communication and digital channels. Christopher Bailey’s creative leadership gave the brand a contemporary visual language while preserving the trench coat and British heritage at its center. Burberry has since moved through several creative and management phases. Riccardo Tisci introduced a new logo and monogram in 2018, while Daniel Lee later returned the Equestrian Knight to prominence and emphasized a refreshed interpretation of British luxury. The company has also promoted digital retail, music and cultural partnerships, resale initiatives, and environmental targets. At the same time, it has faced reputational criticism over the destruction of unsold goods, a controversial fashion-show garment, labor-rights allegations, and periods of weak trading. Burberry Group plc is listed on the London Stock Exchange and operates the brand as a luxury business focused principally on apparel, outerwear, accessories, footwear, and related beauty and fragrance activity. In 2024, the company announced a change of chief executive and a strategy centered on stabilizing performance and refocusing on core outerwear. Its long-term competitive position continues to depend on balancing heritage products with contemporary fashion, controlling distribution, maintaining pricing power, and adapting to regional changes in luxury demand.

History

Thomas Burberry founded the business in 1856 after working as a draper’s apprentice. He opened a shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, and by 1870 the company had developed a focus on outdoor clothing. In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine, a durable and weather-resistant fabric whose yarn was treated before weaving. The material became central to the company’s reputation for protective apparel. A London shop on Haymarket followed in 1891. The company’s identity expanded through exploration, aviation, and military associations. The Equestrian Knight logo was created in 1901 and registered as a trademark in 1909. Burberry supplied clothing for polar expeditions led by Roald Amundsen and Ernest Shackleton, and its garments were used in aviation and mountaineering contexts. During the First World War, the company adapted its protective coats for military officers. This design tradition produced the trench coat, which later moved from military use into civilian wardrobes and ultimately became the brand’s signature product. The Burberry check was used by at least the 1920s, initially most visibly as a trench-coat lining. Over time, it appeared on scarves, bags, clothing, and other accessories. The company also designed specialized aviation garments, including clothing associated with long-distance flights in the 1930s. These activities strengthened the idea of Burberry as a British brand rooted in performance, travel, and public achievement. Burberry remained family controlled until 1955, when ownership passed to Great Universal Stores. From the 1970s, agreements with manufacturers and licensees in markets including Japan and Europe expanded the product range and international distribution. Licensing increased the brand’s reach but also meant that control over product quality, pricing, and presentation was dispersed across markets. A restructuring phase began in the late 1990s. Victor Barnett became chairman in 1997 and appointed Rose Marie Bravo to lead a repositioning of Burberry as a luxury fashion house. The company pursued a stronger fashion identity, international visibility, and more disciplined brand management. Burberry floated on the London Stock Exchange in 2002, and Great Universal Stores disposed of its remaining interest in 2005. During the early 2000s, the widespread use of the check and its adoption by elements of football casual and “chav” culture created a reputational challenge. The association was amplified by lower-priced products, counterfeit goods, and highly visible use of the check. Under Angela Ahrendts and Christopher Bailey, Burberry responded by restricting the check’s use on many products, bringing selected licensed activities back under tighter control, strengthening direct retail, and investing in digital communication. The company sold online first in the United States and then expanded e-commerce into the United Kingdom and the European Union. Bailey joined Burberry as creative director in 2001 and became chief creative officer and chief executive in 2014. His work modernized the brand’s visual identity while continuing to rely on trench coats, British references, music, and digital storytelling. In 2017, Marco Gobbetti became chief executive, and Riccardo Tisci joined as chief creative officer in 2018. Tisci introduced a new logo and monogram developed with graphic designer Peter Saville. Daniel Lee replaced Tisci in 2022 and subsequently led a renewed emphasis on Britishness and the Equestrian Knight logo. Burberry has also faced scrutiny over sustainability and labor practices. In 2018, the company acknowledged that it had destroyed unsold goods and announced that it would stop the practice. It also said it would stop using real fur. In 2021, Burberry announced environmental targets that included a goal of becoming climate positive by 2040 and a deeper reduction target for supply-chain emissions. In 2023, the company partnered with Vestiaire Collective on a resale and circularity initiative. Separate reports in 2023 alleged links between parts of the supply chain and forced labor in Xinjiang; the allegations became part of broader scrutiny of fashion sourcing and human-rights due diligence. The company experienced further management and trading pressure in the 2020s. COVID-19 caused store closures in mainland China and contributed to job reductions in 2020. Jonathan Akeroyd became chief executive in 2022, but left in 2024 after the company issued a profit warning. Joshua Schulman was appointed as his successor, with management stating that the turnaround would prioritize the brand’s core outerwear and trench-coat authority. Burberry remains a listed British luxury group whose business depends on combining heritage, fashion innovation, direct retail, and careful control of its distinctive trademarks.

2024
Joshua Schulman is appointed chief executive
[4]Burberry official investor reports and presentationsburberryplc.com
Burberry names Schulman chief executive after announcing Akeroyd’s departure and a weaker trading outlook.
2023
Equestrian Knight identity returns to prominence
[9]Equestrian Knight identity returns to prominenceburberryplc.com
Burberry introduces refreshed branding that restores the Equestrian Knight as a prominent house symbol.
2022
Jonathan Akeroyd becomes chief executive
[2]Burberry official company leadershipburberryplc.com
Akeroyd succeeds Marco Gobbetti as chief executive of Burberry Group.
2021
Climate-positive ambition announced
[3]Burberry official sustainability informationburberryplc.com
Burberry announces an ambition to become climate positive by 2040 and strengthens its supply-chain emissions target.
2018
Riccardo Tisci introduces a new logo and monogram
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
The brand updates its visual identity under Tisci, with graphics developed by Peter Saville.
2018
Unsold-goods destruction is discontinued
[6]Burberry ends destruction of unsold productsbbc.com
After public criticism, Burberry says it will stop destroying unsold goods and phase out real fur.
2016
Mr Burberry fragrance launches
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Burberry introduces the Mr Burberry fragrance line.
2006
Angela Ahrendts becomes chief executive
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Ahrendts begins a tenure focused on tighter brand control, retail development, and international luxury positioning.
2002
Burberry Group lists in London
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Burberry Group plc is floated on the London Stock Exchange.
2001
Christopher Bailey joins Burberry
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Bailey becomes creative director and later plays a central role in the brand’s digital and creative transformation.
1997
Luxury repositioning begins
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Victor Barnett becomes chairman and appoints Rose Marie Bravo to reorganize and restore Burberry as a luxury fashion house.
1955
Ownership passes to Great Universal Stores
[5]Burberryen.wikipedia.org
Burberry ceases to be an independent family-controlled company after being acquired by Great Universal Stores.
1914
Trench-coat heritage develops during the First World War
[1]Burberry official historyburberryplc.com
Burberry adapts protective coats for military use, establishing the design lineage of its signature trench coat.
1901
Equestrian Knight logo is created
[1]Burberry official historyburberryplc.com
The Equestrian Knight identity is developed; it is registered as a trademark in 1909.
1891
London expansion
[1]Burberry official historyburberryplc.com
Burberry opens a shop on Haymarket in London.
1879
Gabardine is introduced
[1]Burberry official historyburberryplc.com
Burberry develops gabardine, a durable and weather-resistant fabric that becomes central to its outerwear heritage.
1856
Thomas Burberry establishes the business
[1]Burberry official historyburberryplc.com
Thomas Burberry opens his first clothing business in Basingstoke, Hampshire, creating the foundation of the future luxury brand.

Products and positioning

An internationally recognized British luxury house combining functional outerwear heritage, recognizable visual codes, craftsmanship, and contemporary fashion design.

Outerwear · 1914
Trench coats
Burberry’s trench coat is its central heritage product and the clearest expression of the brand’s origins in protective clothing. Its military-era design lineage is commonly associated with structured tailoring, weather protection, belts, storm details, and durable fabrics. Current collections include classic and contemporary interpretations in different lengths, materials, colors, and proportions. The trench coat functions simultaneously as practical outerwear, a luxury status product, and a vehicle for Burberry’s British identity.
Outerwear · 1879
Gabardine outerwear
Gabardine is a tightly woven, durable and weather-resistant fabric introduced by Burberry in the nineteenth century. It helped distinguish the company from ordinary clothing retailers and supported its early reputation for outdoor performance. The material has historically been used in raincoats, jackets, and other protective garments, and its legacy continues to inform Burberry’s approach to outerwear even when modern collections use a broader range of technical and luxury textiles.
Accessories
Burberry check scarves
Check scarves are among Burberry’s most recognizable and widely distributed accessories. Traditionally produced in materials such as cashmere and wool, they use the house check as a highly visible identifier while providing a relatively approachable entry point into the brand. The line connects Burberry’s outerwear heritage with seasonal accessories and has appeared in changing color combinations, scales, and treatments over time.
Apparel
Ready-to-wear
Burberry ready-to-wear includes womenswear, menswear, and selected childrenswear. Collections extend beyond coats into knitwear, tailoring, shirts, dresses, skirts, denim, jersey, and casual pieces. The category is where successive creative directors reinterpret British references, the check, outerwear construction, and the brand’s luxury positioning for current fashion cycles. It supports both runway storytelling and commercial seasonal retail.
Leather accessories
Leather goods
Burberry leather goods include handbags, small leather accessories, belts, and related products. Designs may use the wordmark, Equestrian Knight, check patterns, smooth leather, textured leather, and metal hardware. Leather goods broaden the brand’s use occasions beyond weather protection and provide an important luxury-accessories platform alongside ready-to-wear and outerwear.
Footwear
Footwear
Burberry footwear spans formal, casual, seasonal, and fashion-led designs for women and men. Products may incorporate the house check, logo treatments, outdoor references, and contemporary runway styling. Footwear complements the apparel and accessories businesses and allows the brand to express its British codes in products suited to everyday wear as well as fashion presentation.
Beauty and fragrance · 2016
Fragrance
Burberry fragrance extends the house’s fashion identity into beauty and scent. The portfolio has included fragrances such as Mr Burberry and other products positioned around British character, modern elegance, and the brand’s visual codes. Fragrance has historically involved licensing and operating-partner arrangements, so its exact portfolio and commercial structure may change over time.

Controversies

2023
Allegations concerning forced labor in the supply chain
Research groups alleged that Burberry’s supply chain had links to production associated with Uyghur forced labor. The allegations added to scrutiny of luxury-fashion sourcing and corporate human-rights due diligence.
Source
2021
China backlash and Xinjiang-related scrutiny
Burberry was caught in a consumer backlash in China connected to broader controversy over sanctions, cotton sourcing, and allegations of human-rights abuses in Xinjiang. Brand ambassador Zhou Dongyu ended her contract with the company.
Source
2021
Consumer boycott of Western brands in China
Consumers in mainland China boycotted H&M, Nike, Burberry and other Western brands amid a social-media campaign targeting companies that had refused to use cotton from Xinjiang over alleged forced labor.
Source
2019
Noose-detail hoodie controversy
Burberry withdrew a hoodie featuring a noose-like neck detail after a model criticized the design and online backlash followed. The company apologized and said the item should not have appeared in the collection.
Source
2018
Destruction of unsold merchandise
Reports that Burberry destroyed large amounts of unsold clothing, accessories, and fragrance prompted criticism from environmental groups and consumers. The company ended the practice and announced a move away from real fur.
Source
2001
Check associated with “chav” and football-casual culture
The check became widely associated with lower-priced products, counterfeit goods, and elements of football casual culture. The association damaged the luxury perception of the pattern and led some venues to restrict check garments.
Source

2023A modern take on British luxury
Global
A campaign and brand direction under Daniel Lee used British models, musicians, and cultural references while reintroducing the Equestrian Knight and presenting a contemporary interpretation of Burberry’s heritage.
Outcome. Reframed the visual identity around British cultural expression and core house symbols.
Source
2023Burberry x Vestiaire Collective circular style project
Selected markets
The partnership enabled customers to exchange eligible pre-owned Burberry clothing and handbags for a Burberry gift card, linking resale with future brand purchases.
Outcome. Expanded Burberry’s circularity and resale activity.
Source
2010Burberry Acoustic
Global
A music platform associated with Christopher Bailey’s creative tenure showcased emerging musicians and connected Burberry fashion communication with live performance and youth culture.
Outcome. Strengthened the brand’s digital, cultural, and music-led communications.
Source

Brand decisions

2024
Refocus on outerwear and core brand strengthsStrategy
Background
Burberry reported weaker trading and announced a chief executive transition amid pressure on luxury demand in several regions.
Action taken
Following the appointment of Joshua Schulman, management outlined a turnaround focused on outerwear, trench coats, brand clarity, cost control, and improved commercial execution.
Aftermath
The decision established the initial direction of a new recovery plan, with further implementation dependent on company results and disclosures.
Source
2023
Emphasize heritage symbols under Daniel LeeStrategy
Background
Burberry sought to refresh its positioning while restoring a clearer connection to its British heritage and core outerwear authority.
Action taken
The company introduced refreshed branding centered on the Equestrian Knight and launched campaigns presenting a contemporary British-luxury direction.
Aftermath
The move marked a new creative phase and increased the prominence of a historic house symbol.
Source
2021
Set stronger climate and supply-chain targetsStrategy
Background
Luxury fashion companies faced increasing pressure to reduce emissions and improve environmental performance across their supply chains.
Action taken
Burberry announced an ambition to become climate positive by 2040 and increased its supply-chain emissions-reduction target for 2030.
Aftermath
The commitments established longer-term environmental objectives for the group.
Source
2018
Stop destroying unsold products and phase out real furStrategy
Background
Public criticism focused on the environmental and ethical implications of destroying excess inventory.
Action taken
Burberry announced that it would immediately stop destroying unsold goods and would stop using real fur in new products while phasing out existing fur items.
Aftermath
The decision became part of a wider effort to address sustainability expectations and product-waste criticism.
Source
2006
Tighten control over the check and licensed categoriesStrategy
Background
Burberry faced reputational dilution from widespread check usage, lower-priced products, counterfeits, and dispersed licensing arrangements.
Action taken
Management reduced the check’s use across the product range, brought selected beauty and fragrance licenses in-house, and acquired control of the Spanish franchise operation.
Aftermath
The measures supported a repositioning toward a more controlled global luxury brand.
Source
2002
Burberry Group flotationM&A
Background
The company sought a public-market structure as its international luxury business expanded.
Action taken
Burberry Group plc was listed on the London Stock Exchange.
Aftermath
Burberry became a publicly traded luxury group and later a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index.
Source

Recent events

2021-12-26
Burberry and DAB Motors unveil a limited-edition electric motorcycle collaboration[11]Burberry与DAB Motors推出限量版电动摩托车合作款esquireme.com
Reported: 2021-12-26
Burberry unveiled an exclusive electric motorcycle in collaboration with DAB Motors: the limited-edition Concept-E RS Burberry Edition, with a run of 20 bikes.
Unconfirmed
Burberry wins Ventana Research Digital Leadership Award[12]Burberry获得Ventana Research数字领导力奖finanznachrichten.de
Reported: 2021-11-19
Board International announced that Burberry won the 2021 Ventana Research Digital Leadership Award for Operations and Supply Chain for its use of the Board Decision-Making platform.
Unconfirmed
Manju Journal and Burberry collaborate on Black History Month project[13]Manju Journal 与 Burberry 合作推出黑人历史月项目businessghana.com
Manju Journal collaborated with Burberry on a photo series celebrating Black culture and exploring identity and history in Africa during Black History Month.
2021-10-20
Burberry announces Jonathan Akeroyd as next CEO[14]博柏利宣布任命乔纳森·阿克罗伊德为下一任首席执行官directorstalkinterviews.com
Reported: 2021-10-20
Burberry announced Jonathan Akeroyd's appointment as Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director, effective 1 April 2022; he will succeed Marco Gobbetti.
2021-09-06
Burberry's “Festive” campaign wins Gerety Grand Prix[15]Burberry“Festive”广告活动获 Gerety 大奖eadt.co.uk
Reported: 2021-09-07
The Gerety Awards named Burberry's 2020 Christmas campaign “Festive,” produced by Riff Raff Films, a Grand Prix winner in the Craft category.
Unconfirmed
Marco Gobbetti resigns as Burberry CEO[16]Marco Gobbetti辞任Burberry首席执行官econotimes.com
Reported: 2021-06-29
Burberry CEO Marco Gobbetti resigned and said he would return to Italy to lead Ferragamo’s fashion business. Burberry’s chairman said the board was disappointed but respected his decision.
2021-06-25
Burberry partners with Team Qhubeka NextHash[17]Burberry与Team Qhubeka NextHash建立合作appablog.wordpress.com
Reported: 2021-06-25
Team Qhubeka NextHash announced a partnership with Burberry. The support is set to begin with the 108th Tour de France, and the collaboration will feature a new jersey to be revealed at the team presentation in Brest.
2021-03-26
Consumer boycott of Western brands in China[10]Consumer boycott of Western brands in Chinaepochtimes.com
Reported: 2021-03-27
Consumers in mainland China boycotted H&M, Nike, Burberry and other Western brands amid a social-media campaign targeting companies that had refused to use cotton from Xinjiang over alleged forced labor.
2020-09-17
Burberry collaborates with Twitch on Spring/Summer 2021 show stream[18]Burberry与Twitch合作直播2021春夏时装秀fibre2fashion.com
Burberry collaborated with Twitch on its Spring/Summer 2021 show, which was live streamed using Twitch's Squad Stream functionality. The article states the show was live streamed on September 17, 2020.
2020-08-20
Burberry announces its first designer face-mask collection[19]Burberry 宣布推出首个设计师口罩系列the-independent.com
Reported: 2020-08-20
Burberry announced its first collection of reusable face coverings in its vintage check print. The masks were available to shop online from that day; the brand said 20 per cent of the sale price of each mask would be donated to the Burberry Foundation COVID-19 Community Fund.

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