Richard Bethge GmbH
German family-owned watchmaker and dial specialist founded in 1939, known for pilot watches, hand-made Bethge & Soehne timepieces and worldwide dial restoration.
Last updated September 27, 2026
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Overview
Richard Bethge GmbH is a German watch manufacturer and dial restorer based in Ispringen in the Enzkreis district, near Pforzheim. The company was founded in 1939 by Richard Bethge and his wife Emilie, and it grew within a few years into one of the larger German watch and dial producers. Its history is closely tied to the Pforzheim jewellery and watch industry, and the firm describes itself as one of the longest established family-owned watch companies in Germany. Richard Bethge was an inventive watchmaker. During the Second World War he worked on behalf of the German Wehrmacht to optimise the Breguet hairspring and the compensation balance for military pilot watches, aiming to improve rate accuracy and reduce external influences. His pilot watches became legendary, and he also initiated the founding of the Pforzheim watchmaker school, which he presided over for 23 years. In the 1950s and 1960s his five sons — Joachim, Hans, Rolf, Heinz and Wolfgang — joined the business. As master watchmakers and instrument mechanics, four of them took charge of in-house production and manufacture, while Wolfgang built up worldwide distribution. By 1965 the company employed more than 100 people. Today Richard Bethge GmbH is one of the last German watch manufacturers still in family ownership, with a workforce of more than ten people. Until 31 March 2025 the company was managed by Alexander Bethge, the son of Heinz Bethge. Alongside its watch brand Bethge & Soehne, the factory owns the brands Erbe and Brandtaucher. The company is also described as a worldwide leader in the restoration of dials, and it produces one-off pieces as well as small series of dials. Its guiding principle is "Hand-made in Germany": the Bethge & Soehne watches are exclusively hand crafted, with the watchmakers aiming at timeless design and lasting value for collectors and everyday customers alike.
History
Richard Bethge GmbH was founded in 1939 by Richard Bethge and his wife Emilie. From the outset the company pursued what its own history page calls a "passionate pursuit of perfection, performance and absolute reliability". Richard Bethge recognised the opportunities of the German economic miracle and expanded the workforce from seven to more than 100 employees within a short period. His pilot watches became legendary, and he is credited with initiating the founding of the Pforzheim watchmaker school, over which he presided for 23 years. During the Second World War, Richard Bethge worked on behalf of the German Wehrmacht to optimise the Breguet hairspring and the compensation balance used in military pilot watches. The goal was to increase rate accuracy significantly and to eliminate external influences, as the rapid technical development of aircraft made ever higher speeds and more extreme flight manoeuvres possible, which could strongly affect the accuracy of pilot watches. For these developments he received several awards and recognitions, although his achievements only became known after the end of the war because they had been subject to secrecy. In the 1950s and 1960s the founder's five sons — Joachim, Hans, Rolf, Heinz and Wolfgang — entered the business, reinforcing its expansion. As master watchmakers and instrument mechanics, Joachim, Hans, Heinz and Rolf took charge of the company's own production and manufacture, while Wolfgang successfully developed worldwide distribution. During these years Richard Bethge GmbH established its reputation as one of the global market leaders in the manufacture and restoration of dials, which remains its trademark to the present day. Industrial production of watches from individual parts began in this period, and by 1965 the company employed more than 100 people. Today the company is one of the last German watch manufacturers still in family ownership, with more than ten employees. Until 31 March 2025 it was managed by Alexander Bethge, the son of Heinz Bethge. In addition to the Bethge & Soehne watch brand, the factory owns the brands Erbe and Brandtaucher. The firm is also described as a worldwide leader in the restoration of dials, and it produces one-off pieces as well as small series of dials. Its guiding principle, "Hand-made in Germany", has applied since 1939: the Bethge & Soehne watches are exclusively hand crafted, with the company arguing that no machine works as perfectly, perceptively and reliably as a human being.
- 2025
Alexander Bethge's management of Richard Bethge GmbH ends on 31 March 2025.
- 1965
The company employs more than 100 people.
- 1950
The founder's five sons begin entering the business during the 1950s and 1960s, reinforcing expansion.
- 1940
During the Second World War, Richard Bethge optimises the Breguet hairspring and compensation balance for Wehrmacht pilot watches.
- 1939
Company founded by Richard Bethge and his wife Emilie.
Products and positioning
Family-owned German watchmaker and dial specialist combining traditional hand craftsmanship with world-leading dial restoration expertise.
Bethge & Soehne watches
Exclusively hand-crafted watches of timeless design and permanent value.
Pilot watches
Legendary pilot watches associated with the founder Richard Bethge.
Erbe watches
One of the watch brands owned by the factory.
Brandtaucher watches
One of the watch brands owned by the factory.
Dial restoration
Worldwide leading restoration of watch dials.
Custom and small-series dials
One-off pieces and small series of dials.
Sources5 sources
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