Paul Smith
A British designer fashion brand that combines traditional tailoring with vivid colour, informal details and a playful sense of individuality.
Last updated August 31, 2026
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Overview
Paul Smith is a British designer fashion brand founded in Nottingham in 1970 by Paul Brierley Smith. The business grew from a very small independent menswear shop into an international label selling clothing, accessories and related lifestyle products through standalone stores, wholesale channels and e-commerce. Its identity is closely associated with Smith’s design philosophy of “classic with a twist”: familiar British tailoring, workwear and sportswear references are altered through unexpected colour, humorous details, unusual fabric combinations and modern proportions. Smith’s route into fashion was unconventional. He left school at 15, worked in a Nottingham clothing warehouse and originally hoped to become a professional cyclist. A serious cycling accident at 17 led to a long hospital recovery, during which he became more closely connected with art, graphic design and fashion. He subsequently managed a Nottingham clothing business, studied tailoring and worked with the Savile Row tailor Lincroft Kilgour. These experiences gave the future label a practical understanding of retail, construction and menswear rather than a purely academic design background. His wife, Pauline Smith, who had trained in fashion design at the Royal College of Art, also contributed to the early business. The first Paul Smith shop, originally called Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme, opened at 6 Byard Lane in Nottingham. It was extremely small and initially operated only on Fridays and Saturdays, selling established labels alongside Smith’s own designs. The brand gained wider attention after presenting its first menswear collection in Paris in 1976 and opening a London flagship in Covent Garden in 1979. During the 1980s it expanded outside the United Kingdom, opening its first Japanese store in Tokyo in 1984 and a New York store on Fifth Avenue in 1987. Menswear remains the foundation of the business, but the brand later broadened its offer. Womenswear began in 1993 after women increasingly bought smaller sizes of the men’s collections. That same year, Smith acquired the historic R. Newbold workwear label and incorporated elements of its heritage into the broader design vocabulary. Childrenswear developed from an initial boys’ collection in 1990 into the seasonal Paul Smith Junior line in 2010. The company launched its e-commerce site in 2004, allowing the brand to serve customers beyond its physical retail network. Paul Smith is particularly recognised for multicoloured stripes and colourful pinstripes, although the stripe is only one part of a broader visual language that includes British tailoring, cycling references, graphic prints and deliberately surprising colour placement. The range includes suits, tailoring, knitwear, shirts, outerwear, denim, footwear, bags, small leather goods, eyewear, watches, fragrances and other accessories. The brand has also undertaken collaborations and design projects involving automobiles, bicycles, motorcycles, furniture, lighting, cameras, stationery, books, sports kits, film costumes and cultural products. The business has retained a strong connection with its founder’s personal interests and public identity. Cycling has influenced products, collaborations and the brand’s storytelling, while the label’s stores often use distinctive interiors. The fluorescent pink Los Angeles flagship became a widely photographed architectural and retail landmark. Paul Smith has also maintained a significant cultural profile through exhibitions, books, collaborations and design commissions. As described in the reference material, the brand claims approximately 130 stores in more than 60 countries as of November 2025. Paul Smith remains an active, privately held international fashion business centred on the designer’s continuing creative direction and the values of British craft, wit and versatility.
History
Paul Brierley Smith was born in Beeston, Nottinghamshire, in 1946. He left school at 15 without qualifications and began working in a Nottingham clothing warehouse connected with his father’s retail business. His early ambition was to become a professional cyclist, and cycling later became a recurring influence on his design work and collaborations. At 17 he suffered a serious accident that resulted in a hospital stay of more than three months. During his recovery he encountered art-school communities and became interested in graphic art and fashion. Smith later managed a Nottingham clothing and fashion business owned by an acquaintance from the art-school circle. He remained there for approximately six years. Pauline Smith, his wife, had trained as a fashion designer at the Royal College of Art and contributed to the development of products sold by the business. Smith also attended tailoring classes and worked with the Savile Row tailor Lincroft Kilgour, building the technical and commercial experience that informed his later collections. In 1970 Smith opened Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Homme at 6 Byard Lane in Nottingham. The shop measured less than 15 square metres and operated only two days a week at first. Smith spent the remaining time freelancing in Nottingham and London and working as a buyer for Browns. This early retail model allowed him to test designs directly with customers while maintaining a tightly controlled, independent identity. In 1976 he presented his first menswear collection in Paris, combining casual and semi-formal clothing. In 1979 he opened a flagship store on Floral Street in London’s Covent Garden. International growth followed during the 1980s. A Tokyo store opened in 1984, and a New York store on Fifth Avenue followed in 1987. The business subsequently developed a network of directly operated and other retail locations in major fashion and commercial cities. The brand’s visual language became associated with the designer’s adaptation of conventional British garments through colour, pattern and unexpected details. Smith described this approach as “classic with a twist”; multicoloured stripes and pinstripes became among its most recognisable signatures. The company gradually expanded beyond core menswear. A boys’ collection appeared in 1990 and eventually developed into Paul Smith Junior in 2010. Paul Smith Women launched in 1993, partly in response to women buying smaller sizes from the men’s range. In the same year Smith acquired R. Newbold, a workwear label founded in 1885, and incorporated elements of its archive and aesthetic into his collections. A 1995 Design Museum exhibition, True Brit, marked the company’s first 25 years and later travelled to Glasgow and Nottingham. The brand launched e-commerce in 2004. In 2006 Itochu purchased a 40 percent stake, while Smith remained the majority owner. The company continued to operate as a privately held designer business. In 2016 the men’s and women’s shows were combined and presented during Paris Fashion Week, reflecting a more integrated approach to the label’s collections and public presentation. Paul Smith’s activities have extended well beyond apparel. The designer has worked with Mini, Triumph Motorcycles, Land Rover, Porsche-related projects, Mercian Cycles, Rapha, Anglepoise, Maharam, John Lobb, Globe-Trotter, Leica, Caran d’Ache, Cutler & Gross and other companies. He has designed sports uniforms and cycling products, created film costumes and contributed to publishing, packaging, furniture and interior design. The fluorescent pink Los Angeles store became a notable example of the brand’s use of retail architecture and colour. Smith’s public recognition includes appointment as a Royal Designer for Industry in 1991, a CBE in 1994, a knighthood in the 2000 Birthday Honours and appointment to the Order of the Companions of Honour in 2020. He has also received fashion and design awards and civic recognition in Nottingham. As of the cited November 2025 reference, the brand states that it operates 130 stores in more than 60 countries, alongside online and other distribution channels.
- 2020
Smith appointed to the Order of the Companions of Honour
[1]Paul Smith was appointed a Member of the Order of the Companions of Honour for services to fashion.
- 2016
Men’s and women’s shows are combined
[1]The brand presented integrated men’s and women’s shows during Paris Fashion Week.
- 2010
Paul Smith Junior develops as a seasonal line
[1]The childrenswear offer expanded into Paul Smith Junior, often adapting adult designs for children.
- 2006
Itochu takes a 40 percent stake
[1]Itochu became a minority investor while Smith retained majority ownership.
- 2004
E-commerce site launches
[1]Paul Smith began selling through its own online commerce platform.
- 1995
True Brit exhibition marks 25 years
[1]The Design Museum presented an exhibition celebrating the company’s first quarter-century.
- 1993
Paul Smith Women launches and R. Newbold is acquired
[1]The brand entered womenswear and acquired the historic R. Newbold workwear label.
- 1991
Smith appointed Royal Designer for Industry
[1]Paul Smith received the Royal Designer for Industry designation.
- 1990
Initial boys’ collection introduced
[1]A one-off boys’ collection established the basis for the later childrenswear business.
- 1987
New York expansion begins
[1]Paul Smith opened a store on Fifth Avenue in New York City.
Products and positioning
An upper-mid-market to luxury British designer label combining classic tailoring and wardrobe staples with vivid colour, graphic pattern, humour and an informal, individualistic attitude.
Menswear · 1970
Paul Smith Menswear
The core line combines British tailoring, shirts, knitwear, outerwear, denim and casual clothing. It typically uses conventional wardrobe forms as a base for colour contrasts, graphic patterns, distinctive lining, unusual fabric treatments and relaxed styling. The range expresses Smith’s “classic with a twist” approach rather than treating tailoring as strictly formal or conservative.
Womenswear · 1993
Paul Smith Women
Launched in 1993, Paul Smith Women developed from demand by female customers who were buying smaller sizes from the men’s collections. The line applies the brand’s tailoring, colour and pattern vocabulary to women’s clothing, including suiting, dresses, knitwear, outerwear and casual pieces.
Childrenswear · 2010
Paul Smith Junior
Paul Smith Junior is the brand’s seasonal childrenswear line. It developed from an earlier boys’ collection and has often included child-sized interpretations of adult Paul Smith pieces, using the label’s colour, stripe and tailoring references in age-appropriate clothing and accessories.
Accessories
Paul Smith Accessories
Accessories include bags, wallets, belts, scarves, ties, eyewear, footwear, watches and other small leather goods. Multicoloured stripes and patterned detailing are recurring signatures, although the range also includes more restrained pieces designed to complement the main clothing collections.
Beauty and fragrance
Paul Smith Fragrances
The fragrance offer extends the Paul Smith identity into personal care and scent. Its packaging and presentation generally draw on the brand’s graphic colour language and playful approach to familiar forms.
Sportswear and lifestyle
Paul Smith Junior Cycling
Cycling is a recurring influence on Smith’s work, appearing in specialist collaborations, casual products and visual storytelling. Related products and projects have included cycling apparel, helmets, bicycles and Tour de France and Giro d’Italia designs.
Marketing campaigns
- 2019Men in Black: International costume collaboration
International
Smith designed suits worn in Men in Black: International and made a cameo appearance in the film.
Outcome. The project extended Paul Smith’s tailoring and visual identity into mainstream film culture.
- 2013Giro d’Italia leader’s jersey
Italy · International
Smith designed the leader’s jersey for the Giro d’Italia, including the Maglia Rosa.
Outcome. The collaboration gave the brand prominent exposure within professional cycling.
- 2007Tour de France London Grand Départ jersey
United Kingdom · France
Smith designed a jersey for the start of the Tour de France in London, connecting the label with his long-standing interest in cycling.
Outcome. The project reinforced cycling as a visible part of Paul Smith’s design identity.
- 1995True Brit
United Kingdom
The Design Museum exhibition True Brit marked 25 years of Paul Smith’s business and later travelled to Glasgow and Nottingham, presenting the brand as a distinctive form of contemporary British design.
Outcome. The exhibition broadened public and institutional recognition of Smith’s work beyond the fashion trade.
Brand decisions
2021
Design the Mini Electric and Mini StripProduct launchBackground
Smith returned to automotive design with an emphasis on demonstrating how recycled and natural materials could be used in vehicle interiors and design.
Action taken
He collaborated with Mini on the Mini Electric and the Mini Strip concept, using materials such as cork and other recycled or natural materials.
Aftermath
The projects connected Paul Smith’s design language with automotive experimentation and sustainability themes.
2016
Combine men’s and women’s fashion showsStrategyBackground
The brand maintained both men’s and women’s collections and chose to present them through a more unified fashion-week format.
Action taken
Paul Smith combined its men’s and women’s shows and presented during Paris Fashion Week.
Aftermath
The presentation strategy positioned the two divisions as parts of one integrated brand rather than wholly separate businesses.
2010
Develop Paul Smith JuniorProduct launchBackground
An earlier boys’ collection had demonstrated demand for extending the Paul Smith identity to children’s clothing.
Action taken
The brand developed Paul Smith Junior as a seasonal childrenswear line, often adapting adult designs.
Aftermath
Childrenswear became a continuing part of the brand’s broader product architecture.
2006
Accept minority investment from ItochuM&ABackground
Paul Smith sought an investment relationship while preserving the founder’s control of the privately held business.
Action taken
Itochu acquired a 40 percent stake in Paul Smith, with Smith retaining majority ownership.
Aftermath
The company remained majority-owned by Smith and continued operating as an independent private fashion business.
Equity stake. 40 percent held by Itochu (2006)
2004
Launch direct e-commerceStrategyBackground
The growing international retail business needed a direct digital channel in addition to physical shops and wholesale distribution.
Action taken
Paul Smith launched its e-commerce website.
Aftermath
The brand gained an owned online sales and communication channel serving customers beyond its store network.
1993
Enter womenswear and acquire R. NewboldStrategyBackground
The brand had developed a strong menswear identity, while female customers were buying smaller sizes from the men’s range. Smith also saw value in the heritage of the established R. Newbold workwear label.
Action taken
Paul Smith launched Paul Smith Women and acquired R. Newbold, incorporating elements of the workwear label into its collections.
Aftermath
The moves diversified the business while retaining links to tailoring, workwear and the label’s British design heritage.
Recent events
- 2024
Nottingham tram named after Paul Smith[1]
Other
Nottingham Express Transit named tram number 230 after Smith in recognition of his connection with the city.
- 2021
Paul Smith collaborates on Mini Electric design[1]
Product launch
Smith returned to Mini with a design based on sustainable principles and the use of recycled and natural materials.
- 2016
Paul Smith combines men’s and women’s shows[1]
Other
The brand combined its men’s and women’s fashion shows and presented them during Paris Fashion Week.
- 2006
Itochu acquires minority stake in Paul Smith[1]
M&A
Itochu acquired a 40 percent stake while Paul Smith retained majority ownership of the company.
- 1993
Paul Smith launches womenswear[1]
Product launch
Paul Smith Women was introduced after sustained demand from female customers purchasing smaller versions of menswear pieces.
- 1984
Paul Smith expands into Japan[1]
Other
The brand opened its first Japanese store in Tokyo, an important step in its international expansion.
- 1976
Paul Smith presents first menswear collection in Paris[1]
Product launch
The label presented its first menswear collection in Paris, helping establish its international fashion profile.
- 1970
Paul Smith opens first Nottingham shop[1]
Other
Paul Smith opened his first small menswear shop at 6 Byard Lane in Nottingham, initially combining established labels with his own designs.
Paul Smith continues international development of its fashion and lifestyle business[3]
Other
The company continues to operate as an independent British designer brand through direct retail, ecommerce, wholesale, and licensed or collaborative product categories.
Sources3 sources
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