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N. Corah & Sons

N. Corah & Sons was a Leicester textile manufacturer whose hosiery and knitted clothing business became one of Europe's largest and helped shape Marks & Spencer's early supply model.

Last updated October 14, 2026

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Overview

N. Corah & Sons was a major British hosiery and knitted-clothing manufacturer based in Leicester, England. Founded by Nathaniel Corah in 1815, the business began as a trading operation that bought finished stockings in Leicester and sold them in other markets, especially Birmingham. The enterprise expanded rapidly, moved into its own premises, and became a family partnership when Nathaniel's sons John, Thomas and William joined in 1830. The company developed from a stocking merchant into an integrated manufacturer. By 1855 it operated approximately 2,000 knitting frames, placing it among Britain's largest hosiery businesses. In the 1860s it built the extensive St Margaret's Works north of Leicester's city centre, close to the River Soar. The complex included large warehouses, factory buildings and a tall chimney, with production powered by a steam beam engine. St Margaret's Works became one of Leicester's most recognizable industrial sites and a major source of employment in the city. Corah broadened its range during the nineteenth century. In addition to hosiery, it produced knitted garments, including men's and women's clothing, and later football and rugby jerseys. Its St Margaret label became an important early trade mark and was among the marks registered under Britain's 1875 Trade Marks Registration Act. The label later had a close historical connection with Marks & Spencer's St Michael brand. The relationship with Marks & Spencer was central to Corah's twentieth-century business. Corah was the retailer's first major manufacturing partner and supplied garments directly, bypassing traditional wholesalers. This arrangement allowed longer production runs, closer coordination between design and manufacturing, and tighter control over quality and costs. It also initially exposed Corah to the possibility of being excluded by the Wholesale Textile Association, whose members were accustomed to established wholesale channels. Corah concealed the identity of Marks & Spencer in its accounts through coded references, but the relationship was eventually discovered and the company was removed from the association's list of approved suppliers. As other manufacturers later adopted direct retailer relationships, the commercial risk of that decision diminished. Corah maintained design and product-development capabilities and supplied finished, size-organized garments that could be sent directly to Marks & Spencer stores. By the 1970s, its annual trade with Marks & Spencer was reported at approximately £20 million, and the companies marked the fiftieth anniversary of their relationship in 1976. Corah also expanded beyond Leicester through factories in Barnsley, Scunthorpe, Oakham and Barrie, Ontario. At its peak, the company was described as Europe's largest knitted-fabric producer and employed around 6,800 people in 1969. The business was deeply embedded in Leicester's social and industrial life. It employed large numbers of women, supported sports teams and community activities, and maintained links with the British Legion. During the First World War, hundreds of male employees served, while much of the company's output was directed to war-related production. The Second World War and its aftermath created labour and skills pressures, contributing to the introduction of more specialist post-war training. Corah later faced the structural problems affecting the British hosiery industry: recessions, changing consumer tastes, increasing foreign competition, rising labour costs, and the need to borrow for modernization while keeping prices competitive. The final connection with the founding family ended in 1989, when the company was acquired by the Australian corporate group Charterhall. Charterhall subsequently suffered a loss reported at £26.5 million, and both Charterhall and Corah collapsed during the following period. Corah's Leicester factory closed in the 1990s. Much of the historic St Margaret's Works survives, although substantial low-rise sections were demolished and the original chimney was removed. Parts of the complex have been used for light industrial purposes, with some small-scale hosiery manufacturing reported in surviving buildings. The site has also experienced periods of dereliction and fires in 2012 and 2016. The former factory remains a locally significant industrial heritage site beside Abbey Park, while the statue of St Margaret formerly positioned above the main entrance was moved to nearby St Margaret's Church in 1995.

History

Nathaniel Corah established the business in 1815 at the Globe Inn on Silver Street in Leicester, a location associated with the city's stocking trade. Rather than manufacturing initially, Corah bought completed stockings and resold them elsewhere, with Birmingham serving as a particularly important market. Growth enabled the firm to purchase premises on Union Street in 1824. In 1830, Nathaniel's sons John, Thomas and William entered the partnership, and the business became Nathaniel Corah & Sons. The company increasingly moved toward manufacturing. By 1855 it had around 2,000 knitting frames and ranked among the country's largest hosiery firms. Its Granby Street premises became inadequate, prompting the construction of St Margaret's Works on a larger site north of Leicester's centre. The new factory and warehouses opened in the mid-1860s, with the steam-powered beam engine beginning operation on 13 July 1865. The works eventually became a substantial industrial complex beside the River Soar. During the 1870s, Corah expanded beyond stockings into football and rugby jerseys and a broader range of men's and women's knitted clothing. The St Margaret name became a significant trade mark and was later associated with Marks & Spencer's St Michael retail label. Corah's direct relationship with Marks & Spencer began early in that retailer's development and became one of the defining features of the company's twentieth-century history. By supplying directly, Corah and Marks & Spencer could coordinate designs, production quantities, quality standards and store delivery without relying on wholesalers. Corah operated a design room into at least the early 1970s and could ship garments already sorted by size for immediate retail placement. The direct-supply model initially generated opposition from the Wholesale Textile Association. Corah used coded references for Marks & Spencer in its accounts to obscure the relationship, but the association eventually discovered it and removed Corah from its approved-supplier list. The consequences were limited as direct manufacturer-to-retailer trading became more common across the industry. Corah's Marks & Spencer business later grew substantially; in the 1970s it was reported to be worth about £20 million annually, and the firms celebrated fifty years of cooperation in 1976. Corah expanded its manufacturing footprint during the twentieth century, establishing branch factories in Barnsley, Scunthorpe, Oakham and Barrie, Ontario. It became a large employer in Leicester, with more than 1,000 workers by 1900 and approximately 6,800 employees in 1969. The company also developed a strong workplace community through factory sports teams, social events and veterans' organizations. Around 330 male employees served in the First World War, with 40 reported killed, while approximately 70 percent of output was directed toward war work. The Second World War removed many female workers from the factory and contributed to a post-war skills shortage, leading Corah to introduce more specialized training. The British hosiery sector entered a prolonged period of difficulty in the 1970s and 1980s. Corah had to respond to recessions, imported competition and changing fashion preferences while financing modernization, containing prices and meeting rising wage costs. Production remained substantial: the company was reported to manufacture large weekly volumes of men's half-hose, fully fashioned knitwear and cut-and-sew garments, much of it destined for Marks & Spencer stores. In 1989, after the end of the founding family's involvement, Corah was sold to the Australian corporate group Charterhall. The acquisition was followed by Charterhall's reported £26.5 million loss and the failure of both organizations. Corah's Leicester factory closed during the 1990s. Although much of the rear part of St Margaret's Works was demolished, the principal historic buildings survived and have since accommodated some light industrial uses. The former complex has also experienced dereliction and fires in 2012 and 2016. Its industrial heritage, surviving architecture and association with Leicester's textile economy continue to make it a notable local landmark.

  • 1990

    Collapse and factory closure

    [1]

    Following Charterhall's major loss, Corah failed and the Leicester factory closed during the 1990s.

  • 1989

    Acquired by Charterhall

    [1]

    The company was sold to Australian corporate group Charterhall after the founding family's final involvement ended.

  • 1976

    Fiftieth anniversary of Marks & Spencer relationship

    [1]

    Corah and Marks & Spencer marked fifty years of their manufacturing and retail relationship.

  • 1969

    Peak employment in Leicester

    [1]

    The company employed approximately 6,800 people, making it one of Leicester's largest factories.

  • 1958

    Queen Elizabeth II visits the works

    [1]

    Queen Elizabeth II visited St Margaret's Works.

  • 1919

    Royal visit to St Margaret's Works

    [1]

    King George V and Queen Mary visited the Leicester works.

  • 1870

    Expansion into sports and outer garments

    [1]

    The company began producing football and rugby jerseys alongside hosiery and other men's and women's garments.

  • 1865

    St Margaret's Works begins operation

    [1]

    The new Leicester works started its steam-powered beam engine on 13 July, marking the expansion into a major industrial complex.

  • 1855

    Large-scale hosiery production

    [1]

    The firm operated about 2,000 knitting frames and had become one of Britain's largest hosiery manufacturers.

  • 1830

    Family partnership formed

    [1]

    Nathaniel Corah's sons John, Thomas and William joined the business, which adopted the name Nathaniel Corah & Sons.

Products and positioning

A large-scale British hosiery and knitwear manufacturer combining industrial production, product design and direct supply to major retailers.

  • Hosiery · 1815

    Hosiery

    Hosiery was the company's foundational and most important product category. Corah began by trading finished stockings before developing large-scale knitting operations. Its later output included men's half-hose and other forms of machine-made hosiery, produced in substantial weekly quantities for British retail customers.

  • Knitwear · 1870

    Knitted garments

    Corah expanded from stockings into knitted clothing for men and women. Its manufacturing capabilities included fully fashioned knitwear and other garments developed through the company's design room and coordinated with retail customers such as Marks & Spencer.

  • Sportswear · 1870

    Sports jerseys

    During the nineteenth century Corah added football and rugby jerseys to its product range. These garments reflected the company's broader move into knitted outerwear and sports clothing beyond traditional hosiery.

  • Trade label · 1875

    St Margaret label

    St Margaret was Corah's principal historical clothing label and an early registered trade mark. Its use influenced the naming of Marks & Spencer's St Michael brand, and St Margaret products continued to appear in Marks & Spencer outlets into the post-war period.

Brand decisions

  • 1989

    Sale to CharterhallM&A

    Background

    Corah faced sustained pressure from recession, foreign competition, changing tastes and the financing demands of modernizing British hosiery production.

    Action taken

    The company was sold to the Australian corporate group Charterhall after the founding family's final connection ended.

    Aftermath

    Charterhall subsequently suffered a reported £26.5 million loss, and Corah was broken up before the Leicester factory closed during the 1990s.

    Reported loss. £26.5 million loss (After the 1989 acquisition)

  • 1926

    Direct supply relationship with Marks & SpencerStrategy

    Background

    Corah sought to work directly with the growing retailer rather than rely exclusively on traditional wholesalers.

    Action taken

    The manufacturer coordinated designs, production runs, quality and store-ready delivery directly with Marks & Spencer.

    Aftermath

    The relationship became a major source of business, reportedly reaching about £20 million annually in the 1970s, while also helping establish a wider direct-supply model in British clothing.

Recent events

  • 2016

    Second fire at the former Corah works[1]

    Other

    Another fire affected the former factory complex, while the most significant surviving buildings remained largely intact.

  • 2012

    Fire damages the former Corah works[1]

    Other

    The former St Margaret's Works site suffered a fire. The principal historic buildings were reported to have survived.

  • 1990

    Corah and Charterhall collapse after major loss[1]

    Bankruptcy · Other

    Following the acquisition, Charterhall suffered a reported loss of £26.5 million and both the corporate group and Corah subsequently failed, leading to the closure of the Leicester factory during the 1990s.

  • 1989

    Charterhall acquires N. Corah & Sons[1]

    M&A · Other

    The Australian corporate group Charterhall acquired Corah after the company had lost its last direct connection with the founding family.

Sources1 sources

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