Hickey Freeman
American classic menswear brand founded in Rochester, New York, and associated with tailored suits, jackets, and outerwear.
Last updated August 21, 2026
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Overview
Hickey Freeman is an American menswear brand established in Rochester, New York, in 1899. It began as a partnership among employees and contractors connected with the Wile, Brickner & Wile clothing business and developed into one of Rochester's important manufacturers of men's tailored clothing. The company became particularly known for suits, sport coats, overcoats, trousers, and related formalwear for men and boys. The brand's early identity was shaped by an explicit emphasis on construction quality. After the 1908 merger with Beckel, Baum & Leopold, vice-president Emmett Baum was associated with the decision to concentrate on high-quality clothing at a time when much ready-to-wear apparel was produced with limited tailoring detail. Hickey-Freeman invested in skilled labor, substantial factory capacity, and manufacturing methods intended to bring elements of bespoke craftsmanship into ready-to-wear garments. Its large Rochester plant, commonly known as The Temple, became a major local employer and an enduring symbol of the company. Hickey Freeman expanded substantially during the early twentieth century. A larger factory was built on North Clinton Avenue in 1912, and the facility was enlarged twice during the 1920s as demand increased. At its peak, the operation employed more than 1,700 people. The company later became part of Hartmarx Corporation, which acquired it in 1964. Hartmarx's bankruptcy in 2009 led to a change in ownership and the creation of the HMX holding structure under Emerisque Brands and SKNL North America. Authentic Brands Group acquired HMX in 2012, thereby obtaining control of the Hickey Freeman brand's intellectual property. A later restructuring separated the brand from the Rochester manufacturing operation. In 2013, Grano Retail Investments acquired Hickey Freeman's tangible assets, including the Rochester factory, together with a long-term license to use the brand name. In 2023, the brand and the historic plant diverged more decisively: Authentic Brands Group retained ownership of the brand, while the Rochester facility was sold to Tom James Company, whose operations include the distinct H. Freeman brand. The Rochester operation was renamed Rochester Tailoring Company and continued making apparel for other customers, including United States military contracts and Epaulet. Hickey-Freeman-branded production was moved to Mexican facilities operated by Peerless Clothing. The brand remains associated with traditional American tailoring, classic proportions, business suits, formal jackets, and outerwear. Its history combines a long-standing Rochester manufacturing legacy with the contemporary licensing and outsourced-production model common in branded apparel. During the COVID-19 pandemic, the company also adapted part of its production capability to make face masks and other personal protective equipment for medical workers.
History
Hickey Freeman was formed in Rochester, New York, in 1899 by Jeremiah G. Hickey, Jacob L. Freeman, Thomas Mahon, and George A. Brayer. The founders had professional connections to Wile, Brickner & Wile, then a major Rochester men's-clothing manufacturer. Because Hickey supplied the largest share of the original capital and Mahon made no initial investment, the business adopted the Hickey-Freeman name in 1900. The young company expanded in 1902 by taking over the business and larger premises of Michael Kolb & Co. In 1908 it merged with Beckel, Baum & Leopold Co. and retained the Hickey-Freeman name. Emmett Baum, president of Beckel, Baum & Leopold, became Hickey-Freeman's vice-president. The merger was significant not only for scale but also for brand direction: Baum was credited with helping establish a policy of manufacturing high-quality clothing, an important distinction in an era when ready-to-wear tailoring generally offered less handwork and refinement than custom garments. By 1912, the business had accumulated enough capital and demand to construct a larger factory on North Clinton Avenue. The facility became known as The Temple. Its location was selected partly to preserve access to skilled workers, many of whom lived within walking distance. The plant was among the most complete of its type in the United States and was expanded twice during the 1920s. The company eventually employed more than 1,700 people there, making it a major industrial institution in Rochester as well as a nationally recognized maker of men's tailored clothing. Hickey Freeman remained part of the American tailored-clothing manufacturing sector through much of the twentieth century. Hartmarx Corporation acquired the company in 1964. The Rochester facility was later renovated extensively in 2004 with assistance from state and city public funds. Hartmarx filed for bankruptcy in 2009, after which Emerisque Brands UK and SKNL North America acquired its assets and operated them through HMX. Authentic Brands Group purchased HMX in 2012. This transaction placed the Hickey Freeman trademark within a brand-management company whose model centers on intellectual property ownership, licensing, and commercial partnerships. In 2013, Grano Retail Investments acquired the tangible Hickey Freeman assets, including the Rochester factory, and received a forty-year license to use the brand name. This arrangement created a distinction between ownership of the trademark and control of physical manufacturing assets. During the COVID-19 crisis in 2020, Hickey Freeman used its apparel capabilities to manufacture masks and other protective equipment for medical personnel. The move illustrated the flexibility of the Rochester operation while preserving the company's connection to practical cut-and-sew production. In May 2023, production of Hickey-Freeman-branded suits was announced for relocation to Mexico under a design and manufacturing arrangement with Peerless Clothing. The historic Rochester factory was sold to Tom James Company, which also owns the separate H. Freeman brand. The facility's operations were renamed Rochester Tailoring Company and continued to produce clothing for other labels and institutional customers, including United States military contracts and Epaulet. The transition allowed the workers to remain employed, but it ended Rochester's role as the principal manufacturing site for Hickey-Freeman-branded garments. Today, Hickey Freeman is best understood as an active premium American menswear trademark with a heritage rooted in Rochester manufacturing. Its identity rests on classic tailoring, business and formal suiting, traditional outerwear, and the reputation built by more than a century of American clothing production. Its current operating model combines brand ownership by Authentic Brands Group with contracted production rather than the vertically integrated Rochester manufacturing structure that defined much of its earlier history.
- 2023
Brand production moves to Mexico
[1]Peerless Clothing takes on production of Hickey-Freeman-branded suits in Mexico.
- 2023
Former Rochester factory changes ownership
[1]Tom James Company purchases the historic plant, which continues as Rochester Tailoring Company for other customers and contracts.
- 2020
Production shifts to protective equipment
[1]The company makes masks and other personal protective equipment during the COVID-19 pandemic.
- 2013
Grano acquires tangible assets and a brand license
[1]Grano Retail Investments acquires the Rochester factory and other tangible assets under a long-term Hickey-Freeman name license.
- 2012
Authentic Brands Group acquires HMX
[1]Authentic Brands Group acquires HMX, including Hickey Freeman's brand intellectual property.
- 2009
Hartmarx bankruptcy and asset transition
[1]Hartmarx enters bankruptcy, and its assets later move to Emerisque Brands and SKNL North America under HMX.
- 2004
Rochester factory renovation
[1]The factory receives extensive renovations supported partly by public funding.
- 1964
Hartmarx acquires the company
[1]Hickey-Freeman becomes part of Hartmarx Corporation.
- 1920
Factory expansion during the 1920s
[1]The Rochester plant is expanded twice as volume grows and employment rises above 1,700 workers.
- 1912
The Temple factory opens
[1]Hickey-Freeman builds a major new factory on North Clinton Avenue in Rochester.
Products and positioning
Premium classic American menswear emphasizing tailoring, traditional construction, fit, and long-established Rochester heritage.
Tailored menswear · 1899
Men's suits
The brand's core product category consists of classic business and formal suits. Hickey Freeman's historical reputation is tied to structured tailoring, quality materials, and construction intended to bring traditional craftsmanship to ready-to-wear menswear. Contemporary branded production is contracted to Peerless Clothing in Mexico.
Tailored menswear
Sport coats and tailored jackets
Hickey Freeman has long offered tailored jackets and sport coats positioned between formal suiting and everyday classic dressing. These garments express the brand's emphasis on traditional American proportions, structured construction, and versatile business-casual use.
Outerwear
Overcoats and outerwear
Overcoats and related outerwear extend the brand's formal tailoring identity into cold-weather clothing. The category is associated with classic silhouettes designed to be worn over business suits and tailored separates.
Menswear separates
Dress shirts and trousers
Dress shirts and trousers complement Hickey Freeman's suit and jacket offerings, providing coordinated pieces for business, formal, and traditional American menswear wardrobes.
Children's formalwear
Boys' tailored clothing
The brand has also been described as a manufacturer of suits and tailored clothing for boys, extending its formalwear heritage beyond adult menswear.
Marketing campaigns
- 2020Pandemic protective-equipment production
United States
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Hickey Freeman redirected manufacturing resources toward masks and other protective equipment intended for doctors and medical workers.
Outcome. The initiative provided protective equipment while temporarily adapting the company's apparel production capabilities.
Brand decisions
2023
Relocation of Hickey-Freeman-branded productionStrategyBackground
The brand's owner and the Rochester factory operator pursued separate manufacturing and ownership arrangements.
Action taken
Production of Hickey-Freeman-branded suits was contracted to Peerless Clothing facilities in Mexico.
Aftermath
The historic Rochester facility stopped serving as the principal production site for Hickey-Freeman-branded suits, while continuing under new ownership for other customers.
2013
Separation of brand rights and tangible assetsM&ABackground
Following Authentic Brands Group's acquisition of HMX, the physical Rochester operation and related tangible assets were transferred to Grano Retail Investments.
Action taken
Grano acquired the tangible assets and received a forty-year license to use the Hickey-Freeman name.
Aftermath
The arrangement separated trademark ownership from factory ownership and manufacturing control.
2012
Authentic Brands Group acquires HMXM&ABackground
HMX held the assets of the former Hartmarx businesses after Hartmarx's bankruptcy and subsequent restructuring.
Action taken
Authentic Brands Group acquired HMX, including the Hickey Freeman brand.
Aftermath
Brand ownership moved to an intellectual-property-focused owner, while later manufacturing and asset arrangements were handled separately.
1908
Concentration on high-quality clothingStrategyBackground
After the merger with Beckel, Baum & Leopold, the company operated in a ready-to-wear market where garments often received less hand craftsmanship than custom clothing.
Action taken
Hickey-Freeman adopted a stronger emphasis on quality construction and tailored workmanship.
Aftermath
The decision became central to the brand's long-term premium positioning and reputation for American tailoring.
Recent events
- 2023
Hickey Freeman suit production moves to Mexico[1]
Other
Production of Hickey-Freeman-branded suits was announced for relocation to Mexican facilities operated by Peerless Clothing, separating the brand's production from its historic Rochester factory.
- 2023
Tom James Company purchases the former Hickey Freeman factory[1]
M&A
Tom James Company acquired the Rochester factory. The facility continued under a new operating identity and retained production work for other brands and contracts.
- 2020
Hickey Freeman makes protective equipment during the pandemic[1]
Other
The company redirected part of its manufacturing capability toward masks and other personal protective equipment for doctors and medical workers during the COVID-19 pandemic.
- 2013
Grano Retail Investments acquires Hickey Freeman assets[1]
M&A
Grano Retail Investments acquired tangible assets including the Rochester factory and obtained a long-term license to use the Hickey-Freeman brand name.
- 2012
Authentic Brands Group acquires HMX[1]
M&A
Authentic Brands Group purchased HMX, including the Hickey Freeman brand, as part of its strategy of acquiring and managing established consumer trademarks.
- 2009
Hartmarx files for bankruptcy[1]
Bankruptcy
Hartmarx Corporation, then the parent of Hickey Freeman, entered bankruptcy proceedings in the United States. Its assets were subsequently acquired by Emerisque Brands and SKNL North America.
- 2004
Hickey Freeman factory receives public renovation support[1]
Other
The Rochester factory underwent extensive renovation supported in part by public funding from New York State and the City of Rochester.
Sources1 sources
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