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Central

Central is a Lima restaurant founded by Virgilio Martínez Véliz that explores Peru's ecosystems and indigenous ingredients through contemporary cuisine.

Last updated August 31, 2026

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Overview

Central is a destination restaurant in Lima's Barranco District and the flagship establishment of Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez Véliz. Rather than treating Peruvian cuisine as a fixed collection of recognizable dishes, the restaurant uses the country's geography, biodiversity, and indigenous foodways as the organizing principle for its menus. Its cooking draws on ingredients and culinary references from Peru's Pacific coast, Andean highlands, and Amazonian rainforest, presenting them through highly contemporary techniques and visual compositions. The restaurant functions both as a dining room and as a workshop for Martínez's gastronomic philosophy. Ingredients highlighted in descriptions of its cuisine include kushuru, an edible cyanobacterium collected in high-altitude wetlands; arracacha, an Andean root; and arapaima, a large freshwater fish associated with the Amazon basin. The resulting cuisine is generally categorized as contemporary Peruvian, but Central's identity is more specifically linked to ingredient research, altitude and ecosystem-based menu construction, and the reinterpretation of lesser-known native products. Martínez developed his professional background at restaurants including Lutèce in New York, Can Fabes in Sant Celoni, and Astrid & Gastón locations in Bogotá and Madrid. Central was also shaped by his collaboration with Pía León, who worked with Martínez at the restaurant and later became its chef de cuisine and his wife. American-born Gregory Thomas Smith has served as wine director. Central first operated in Lima's Miraflores district. Its early operation became entangled with local zoning enforcement because the restaurant was located in a residential area. In 2009, the Miraflores mayor ordered its closure under zoning rules that had been approved in 2006. The restaurant continued operating for a period, ultimately closed in 2010, and later reopened under a court order. That order was subsequently annulled while an appeal remained pending in the account described by the cited reference. Central eventually relocated to Barranco, where it became established as one of Peru's most internationally prominent restaurants. Its reputation grew rapidly in domestic and international rankings. Central was named Best Restaurant of Peru by the SUMMUM dining guide in 2012 and again received that distinction in 2014, when it also won awards for Best Contemporary Peruvian Cuisine and Best Sommelier. It entered The World's 50 Best Restaurants list at number 50 in 2013, then rose to number 15 in 2014, receiving the Highest Climber recognition. It reached fourth place in 2015 and 2016, fifth in 2017, sixth in 2018, and second in 2022. The restaurant was named Latin America's best restaurant for three consecutive years from 2014 through 2016, placed second in 2017, and returned to first place in 2022. In 2023, it was ranked number one in The World's 50 Best Restaurants. These results made Central a leading international reference point for modern Peruvian cooking and for restaurant concepts built around ecological and cultural exploration.

History

Central was established in Lima as the principal restaurant of chef Virgilio Martínez Véliz. Martínez's earlier career included work at Lutèce in New York, Can Fabes in Spain, and Astrid & Gastón restaurants in Bogotá and Madrid. Those experiences informed a project centered on developing a distinct contemporary expression of Peruvian cuisine rather than reproducing conventional restaurant formats. The restaurant initially operated in the Miraflores district. Its early history included a zoning dispute because it operated in a residential area. In 2009, Miraflores mayor Manuel Masías Oyanguren ordered the restaurant closed, citing zoning rules approved in 2006. Central did not immediately cease operations and eventually closed in 2010. It reopened later that year under a court order, although the order was subsequently annulled and the restaurant pursued an appeal. Central later moved to the Barranco District, its current Lima location. At Barranco, Central developed a culinary model based on research into Peru's diverse environments. Its menus connect products from the coast, Andes, and Amazon to ideas of elevation, ecology, and local food culture. Products cited in descriptions of the restaurant include kushuru from high-altitude wetlands, arracacha from the Andes, and arapaima from the Amazon. The restaurant's cooking is therefore contemporary in technique and presentation while remaining explicitly grounded in Peruvian ingredients and landscapes. Martínez's collaboration with Pía León became central to the restaurant's operation. León worked with Martínez for two years before their marriage in Lima on May 4, 2013, and has been identified as Central's chef de cuisine. Gregory Thomas Smith has served as wine director. Together, the culinary and beverage teams helped make Central both a high-end restaurant and a platform for ingredient investigation. Central's critical recognition accelerated during the 2010s. SUMMUM named it Best Restaurant of Peru in 2012. The restaurant entered The World's 50 Best Restaurants at number 50 in 2013 and rose to number 15 in 2014, when it was also recognized as the ranking's Highest Climber. SUMMUM again named it Best Restaurant of Peru in 2014 and gave it additional awards for Best Contemporary Peruvian Cuisine and Best Sommelier. Central was named Latin America's best restaurant in 2014, 2015, and 2016, ranked second in 2017, and returned to number one in 2022. Its global placements included fourth in 2015 and 2016, fifth in 2017, sixth in 2018, and second in 2022. In 2023, Central reached number one in The World's 50 Best Restaurants. Its rise established the restaurant as one of the most visible representatives of contemporary Peruvian gastronomy and of fine dining organized around local biodiversity and culinary research.

  • 2023

    Named the world's best restaurant

    [1]

    Central took the top position in The World's 50 Best Restaurants ranking.

  • 2022

    Returns to number one in Latin America

    [1]

    Central was ranked the best restaurant in Latin America and second globally.

  • 2014

    Global ranking breakthrough

    [1]

    Central rose to number 15 globally and received Highest Climber recognition.

  • 2013

    Debut in The World's 50 Best Restaurants

    [1]

    Central entered the global ranking at number 50.

  • 2012

    Named Best Restaurant of Peru

    [1]

    SUMMUM named Central Best Restaurant of Peru.

  • 2010

    Closure and court-ordered reopening

    [1]

    Central eventually closed in Miraflores and reopened later the same year under a court order before relocating to Barranco.

  • 2009

    Miraflores closure order

    [1]

    Miraflores authorities ordered Central closed over operation in a residential area under local zoning rules.

Products and positioning

A research-oriented fine-dining restaurant that presents Peru's ecosystems and indigenous ingredients through contemporary cuisine.

  • Fine dining

    Central tasting menu

    Central's principal offering is a contemporary Peruvian tasting experience organized around indigenous ingredients and Peru's varied ecosystems. The restaurant connects coastal, Andean, and Amazonian products with modern techniques, composed presentations, and a research-led narrative about place and altitude.

  • Beverage service

    Peruvian beverage and wine pairing

    The restaurant offers a beverage program accompanying its cuisine, supported by wine director Gregory Thomas Smith. Central's recognition for Best Sommelier reflects the role of pairing and beverage curation within the overall dining experience.

Brand decisions

  • 2010

    Relocation from Miraflores to BarrancoStrategy

    Background

    Central's original Miraflores premises became subject to zoning enforcement after operating in a residential area.

    Action taken

    After closure, a court-ordered reopening, and continuing legal uncertainty, the restaurant moved to Barranco.

    Aftermath

    The Barranco location became Central's established base and supported its subsequent international growth in reputation.

Recent events

  • 2023

    Central is ranked the world's best restaurant[1]

    Other

    Central took the number one position in The World's 50 Best Restaurants ranking.

  • 2023

    Central is named the world's best restaurant[1]

    Other

    Central earned the number-one position in The World's 50 Best Restaurants ranking.

  • 2022

    Central reaches number two in the global ranking[1]

    Other

    Central returned to the top of the Latin American ranking and was placed second in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.

  • 2022

    Central returns to the top of Latin America's ranking[1]

    Other

    Central was named Latin America's best restaurant again and ranked second in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.

  • 2018

    Central reaches number six in the global ranking[1]

    Other

    Central was ranked sixth in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.

  • 2017

    Central is ranked second in Latin America and fifth worldwide[1]

    Other

    Central placed second in the Latin America ranking and fifth in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.

  • 2016

    Central again ranks fourth globally[1]

    Other

    The restaurant repeated its number-four position in The World's 50 Best Restaurants and was again named Latin America's best restaurant.

  • 2015

    Central reaches number four in The World's 50 Best Restaurants[1]

    Other

    Central ranked fourth globally and retained the top position in the Latin America regional ranking.

  • 2014

    Central receives Highest Climber recognition[1]

    Other

    The restaurant climbed to number 15 in the global ranking and received the Highest Climber award.

  • 2014

    Central is named Latin America's best restaurant[1]

    Other

    Central was named the best restaurant in Latin America for the first of three consecutive years.

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