Aquascutum

Aquascutum is a British heritage luxury fashion brand founded in London in 1851 by tailor and entrepreneur John Emary. Its name, adopted after Emary developed and patented a waterproof wool in 1853, combines the Latin words for “water” and “shield.” The innovation established the company’s long-running association with protective outerwear and helped define its identity as a maker of technically capable clothing with a formal British style. The brand began as a high-quality menswear shop at 46 Regent Street and later moved to 100 Regent Street. Its waterproof fabrics were used for coats supplied to British military personnel, including soldiers during the Crimean War and both world wars. Aquascutum subsequently moved beyond military and practical clothing into civilian fashion. A womenswear department opened in 1900, initially offering water-resistant capes and coats that became popular among British suffragettes. The company also developed named materials and construction techniques, including Eiderscutum and the multicoloured Aquaspectrum wool weave introduced in 1962. Aquascutum’s reputation was strengthened by royal and political patronage. King Edward VII was its first royal client, and the company received a royal warrant in 1897. Additional warrants followed over subsequent decades. The brand has dressed several Princes of Wales, Winston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher and John Major, as well as actors and public figures including Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall, Cary Grant, Sean Connery and Michael Caine. Its trench coats became associated with British military heritage, political authority and cinematic style, although the brand’s broader assortment has included tailored suits, dresses, knitwear, shirts, scarves, ties and other accessories. Aquascutum remained family owned until 1990, when Japan’s Renown Incorporated acquired it. During the Renown period the company expanded its licensing activities, developed a stronger international presence and staged its first runway presentation at London Fashion Week in 2005. The business experienced financial pressure in the late 2000s, and Renown announced plans to sell it in 2008. In 2009, Broadwick Group acquired the non-Asian operations while YGM Trading acquired Asian rights. Aquascutum entered administration in the United Kingdom in April 2012, after which YGM Trading bought the company and concentrated its retail and commercial activity heavily on China and surrounding Asian markets. Shandong Ruyi’s Jining Ruyi Investment Co. acquired Aquascutum from YGM Trading in 2017. The brand continued through a combination of apparel, retail and licensing arrangements. In 2020, Aquascutum entered administration again and granted Trinity Limited exclusive rights covering design, manufacture and distribution in Greater China, together with a role in global licensing management. The brand remains active as a licensed and distributed fashion label. Its positioning continues to draw on British heritage, waterproof outerwear, traditional tailoring and the visual language of the London luxury wardrobe, while its ownership and commercial model have changed substantially over time.

Aquascutum’s history began in 1851, when John Emary opened a high-quality menswear shop at 46 Regent Street in London. In 1853, Emary succeeded in producing waterproof wool, patented the process and renamed the business Aquascutum, a Latin-derived name meaning “water shield.” The company later moved to 100 Regent Street and built its reputation around coats that combined weather protection with formal tailoring. The company’s early military associations were important to its later identity. Waterproof Aquascutum fabric was used for coats supplied to officers during the Crimean War, and trench coats made from the company’s materials were worn by British military personnel during the first and second world wars. The brand also developed civilian applications. King Edward VII became its first royal client, ordering a coat in the Prince of Wales check, and Aquascutum received its first royal warrant in 1897. Further royal warrants were recorded in 1903, 1911, 1920, 1947 and 1952. In 1900, the company established a womenswear department, initially focusing on water-repellent capes and coats. Aquascutum expanded its material vocabulary during the twentieth century. Its Eiderscutum light overcoat and Aquaspectrum multicoloured wool-yarn weave were among products and fabrics developed under names derived from the brand. In 1953, its Wyncol fabric, designed to withstand very strong winds, was used by Edmund Hillary during the first confirmed ascent of Mount Everest. Alongside technical outerwear, Aquascutum supplied formal clothing to politicians, aristocrats, explorers, actors and other public figures. During the 1980s and 1990s, Kingsley Matheson Pink of the Regent Street flagship dressed British Prime Ministers Margaret Thatcher and John Major, among other dignitaries. The business remained family owned until 1990, when it was acquired by Japanese textile conglomerate Renown Incorporated. Under Renown, the brand developed licensing arrangements and expanded outside the United Kingdom. In 2005 it presented its first runway show at London Fashion Week. Renown was also involved in the Japanese ready-to-wear licence, while later agreements covered accessories such as ties and scarves. The company’s financial condition weakened during the late 2000s, and Renown announced that it intended to sell Aquascutum. A management-backed offer associated with Kim Winser was rejected in 2009. Broadwick Group then acquired the non-Asian business, while YGM Trading, an established Asian licensee, obtained Asian rights. The Broadwick period was short. Senior designers Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz left in 2010, and Joanna Sykes served as design director from 2010 to 2012. Aquascutum entered administration in April 2012, with FRP Advisory appointed as administrator. The Northamptonshire factory was closed during the administration process. YGM Trading subsequently acquired the company and redirected the centre of gravity of the business toward Asia. By 2013, most of the brand’s outlets were in mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan, although stores were later closed in China and Taiwan. The Northamptonshire factory was sold and later operated under the name The Clothing Works. During YGM ownership, Aquascutum entered additional licensing arrangements. In 2015, Canadian company Jaytex obtained rights to distribute the 1851 London collection in the United States and Canada. In 2016 and 2017, Te Dinh Sy led menswear and then took responsibility for womenswear. The brand also collaborated with Supreme on an eight-piece collection. In 2017, Jining Ruyi Investment Co., associated with Chinese textile group Shandong Ruyi, acquired Aquascutum from YGM Trading. The brand continued as a heritage fashion label using a mixture of direct operations, regional licences and product licensing. In September 2020, Aquascutum entered administration again. During the same period, Trinity Limited received exclusive rights to design, manufacture and distribute products in Greater China and was appointed exclusive licensing agent for global licensing. Aquascutum’s contemporary identity therefore rests on the continued commercial use of its British heritage, waterproof outerwear expertise, trench-coat tradition and London tailoring codes, while its ownership and distribution structure remain centred on licensing and international partnerships.

1. 2020Second administration and Trinity licensing agreement

   Aquascutum enters administration and grants Trinity Limited exclusive Greater China rights plus a global licensing-agent role.

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2. 2017Shandong Ruyi acquires Aquascutum

   Jining Ruyi Investment Co. purchases the brand from YGM Trading.

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3. 2015Jaytex receives North American distribution rights

   Jaytex signs an agreement covering distribution of the 1851 London collection in the United States and Canada.

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4. 2012UK administration and YGM acquisition

   The British business enters administration; YGM Trading subsequently acquires Aquascutum.

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5. 2009Broadwick acquires non-Asian operations

   Broadwick Group acquires the non-Asian business while YGM Trading takes the Asian rights.

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6. 2005First London Fashion Week runway presentation

   Aquascutum presents its first runway show at London Fashion Week.

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7. 1990Renown acquires Aquascutum

   The previously family-owned business is acquired by Japanese textile company Renown Incorporated.

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8. 1953Wyncol fabric is used on the Everest expedition

   Aquascutum’s wind-resistant Wyncol fabric is used by Edmund Hillary during the first confirmed ascent of Mount Everest.

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9. 1900Womenswear department opens

   The company expands into womenswear with water-repellent capes and coats.

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10. 1897First royal warrant

    Aquascutum receives a royal warrant associated with the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII.

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11. 1853Waterproof wool is patented and the Aquascutum name is adopted

    Emary develops and patents waterproof wool and names the company Aquascutum, derived from Latin for “water shield.”

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12. 1851John Emary opens a Regent Street menswear shop

    John Emary establishes a high-quality menswear business at 46 Regent Street in London.

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Heritage luxury fashion with a British London identity, combining technically protective outerwear, traditional tailoring and restrained classic styling.

• Aquascutum trench coatOuterwear

  The trench coat is the brand’s defining product category, connecting its waterproof textile heritage with British military and London tailoring traditions. Aquascutum trench coats are associated with protective construction, formal proportions and classic styling, and have been worn by military personnel, political figures and entertainers. The category remains central to the brand’s heritage positioning.

• Waterproof wool outerwearOuterwear1853

  Aquascutum built its original reputation around waterproof wool developed by John Emary in the 1850s. The material enabled the company to offer coats that addressed wet British weather while retaining the appearance and structure of tailored clothing. Later products extended this idea into overcoats, capes and other protective garments.

• 1851 LondonReady-to-wear

  1851 London is a main-collection label associated with Aquascutum’s international licensing and distribution activity. It represents the brand’s attempt to translate its heritage into a contemporary ready-to-wear assortment for markets outside its core British base, including a North American distribution arrangement with Jaytex.

• AquaspectrumTextile and apparel line1962

  Aquaspectrum was a multicoloured wool-yarn weave introduced by Aquascutum in 1962. It illustrates the company’s practice of giving distinctive names to textile developments and using material innovation as part of its product identity.

• WyncolTechnical fabric

  Wyncol was a wind-resistant fabric designed to withstand winds reported at up to 100 miles per hour. Its use by Edmund Hillary during the 1953 Everest expedition gave the material a notable association with exploration and extreme-weather performance.

• 2014Aquascutum campaign featuring Damian Lewis

  International

  Damian Lewis featured in an Aquascutum campaign, drawing on the label’s British heritage and tailored menswear identity.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2012Aquascutum campaign featuring Guinevere Van Seenus

  International

  Guinevere Van Seenus appeared in an Aquascutum campaign supporting the fashion brand’s image during its transition into administration.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2010Aquascutum campaign featuring Karlie Kloss

  International

  Karlie Kloss appeared in an Aquascutum campaign during the Broadwick ownership period.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2008160th anniversary campaign with Sammi Cheng

  Hong Kong · Greater China

  YGM Trading used Cantopop performer Sammi Cheng to promote Aquascutum in connection with an anniversary campaign in the Asian market.

  Outcome. Regional brand campaign

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• 2007Aquascutum campaign featuring Brett Anderson

  International

  Brett Anderson appeared in an Aquascutum campaign connected with the brand’s contemporary British cultural image.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2007Aquascutum campaign featuring Gisele Bündchen and Jamie Dornan

  International

  Gisele Bündchen and Jamie Dornan were featured in Aquascutum campaigns during 2007–2008.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2006Aquascutum campaign featuring Pierce Brosnan

  International

  Pierce Brosnan appeared in an Aquascutum advertising campaign, reinforcing the brand’s association with polished British outerwear and mature cinematic style.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2006Aquascutum campaign featuring Julia Stegner

  International

  Julia Stegner featured in an Aquascutum campaign supporting the brand’s fashion positioning.

  Outcome. Brand image campaign

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• 2020Greater China licensing agreement with Trinity LimitedStrategy

  Aquascutum entered administration again in September 2020 while seeking to maintain product and market operations.

  What changed. The brand granted Trinity Limited exclusive rights to design, manufacture and distribute products in Greater China and appointed Trinity as exclusive agent for global licensing.

  Aftermath. The agreement reinforced a licensing-led operating model in one of Aquascutum’s most important markets.

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• 2017Acquisition by Jining Ruyi Investment Co.M&A

  YGM Trading owned Aquascutum after the 2012 administration and agreed to sell the brand.

  What changed. Jining Ruyi Investment Co., associated with Shandong Ruyi, acquired Aquascutum.

  Aftermath. Aquascutum became part of the Shandong Ruyi group and continued through retail and licensing operations.

  Reported transaction value. $117 million (£95 million) (2017 acquisition)

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• 2012Administration and factory closureOther

  The UK business faced financial distress and entered administration in April 2012.

  What changed. FRP Advisory was appointed administrator, and the Northamptonshire factory was closed during the process.

  Aftermath. YGM Trading acquired the company shortly afterward and the factory was later sold to a British owner.

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• 2009Separation of Asian and non-Asian operationsM&A

  Renown sought to sell Aquascutum after a period of losses, while YGM Trading already held important Asian licensing rights.

  What changed. Broadwick Group acquired the non-Asian operations and YGM Trading acquired the Asian rights.

  Aftermath. The brand operated under divided regional ownership and licensing arrangements until YGM acquired the company after the 2012 administration.

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• 1990Sale to Renown IncorporatedM&A

  Aquascutum had been family owned before being acquired by Japanese textile conglomerate Renown Incorporated.

  What changed. Renown purchased the brand and became its corporate owner.

  Aftermath. The brand entered a period of Japanese ownership and expanded its international licensing activity.

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• 2020Aquascutum enters administration again

  The brand entered administration in September and subsequently appointed Trinity Limited for exclusive Greater China rights and global licensing management.

  BankruptcyM&A
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• 2017Shandong Ruyi agrees to acquire Aquascutum

  Jining Ruyi Investment Co., linked to Shandong Ruyi, acquired Aquascutum from YGM Trading.

  M&A
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• 2012Aquascutum enters UK administration

  The British operating company entered administration and administrators began closing the Northamptonshire factory.

  Bankruptcy
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• 2012YGM Trading acquires Aquascutum

  Aquascutum’s Asian licensee acquired the company after its UK administration process.

  M&ABankruptcy
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• 2009Broadwick acquires Aquascutum’s non-Asian operations

  Broadwick Group acquired the company’s non-Asian business, while YGM Trading obtained rights for the Asian business.

  M&A
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• 2008Renown announces intention to sell Aquascutum

  Japanese parent company Renown announced plans to sell the brand after reporting several consecutive years of losses.

  Other
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1. Aquascutum