In 1988, the Vionnet label was acquired by the Lummen family. The family kept a low profile approach, avoiding new fashion collections and focusing on accessories and new perfumes (launch of "Madeleine Vionnet" in 1996 and "MV" in 1998).
2006–2008 - The Lummen Era
In July 2006, following years of speculations,[6] Arnaud de Lummen, CEO of the house, announced a return on the fashion scene.[7] He promised "a unique and genuine approach to bring forward the Vionnet vision" and not a simple revival.[8] Sophia Kokosalaki, then at the peak of her fame, was appointed Creative Director of the house.[9][10] A debut clothing collection was launched for Spring/Summer 2007 - the first Vionnet clothing collection in 67 years.
The first new collection was unveiled to the public in December 2006 within the US edition of Vogue.[11] From early 2007, this first new Vionnet collection became exclusively available in the house atelier in Paris and within Barneys New York flagship stores in the USA.[12][13] Sophia Kokosalaki designed one more collection for the label before to be replaced in May 2007 by Marc Audibet,[14] in an unexpected move from the house.[15]
Marc Audibet, appointed as artistic advisor, presented its sole and unique collection for the house in October 2007. In her review of the collection, Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, stated: "Audibet has deeply understood the essence of Madeleine Vionnet."[16]
From 2008, Vionnet collaborated with a pool of designers, without revealing their identities. Arnaud de Lummen told Women's Wear Daily that he wanted the focus to be on the label's expansion and not on the fame of its designers: "Vionnet doesn't need to be associated with a designer's name, it's an institution."[17] To support such expansion, de Lummen approached several investors and one of them, Matteo Marzotto, eventually became a buyer.[18] After initiating Vionnet's revival and heading the relaunch house, Arnaud de Lummen became an expert in reviving long dormant brands. Through Luvanis, he initiated Moynat's revival and acquired rights in sleeping beauty fashion brands such like Paul Poiret and Mainbocher.[19][20]
From 2006 to 2008, Vionnet was established at 21, Place Vendôme in the former premises of Louise Chéruit and Elsa Schiaparelli. Vionnet produced made-in-France "demi-couture" collections closed to haute-couture in the prices featured and the techniques and textiles used. Vionnet involved historical partners of the house, such as the couture embroiderer Maison Lesage.
2009–2011 - The Marzotto Era
On February 24, 2009, Matteo Marzotto announced the acquisition of the label[21] and the creation of a new and independent structure in Milan where Vionnet is now operated. Matteo Marzotto, former General Manager and President of Valentino SpA, is one of the heirs of the Marzotto Group, a powerful textile group established in Italy since 1836. Matteo Marzotto also announced that some additional strategic development is to be provided by Gianni Castiglioni, CEO of the fashion brand Marni.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, formerly from Prada, became the new creative director of the house, introducing his first new collection in October 2009. In September, 2011, Vionnet announced that twin sisters Barbara and Lucia Croce as creative directors, replacing Rodolfo Paglialunga.[22]
In December 2011, Vionnet unveiled its first directly owned stored in Milan.[23]
Under the leadership of Marzotto, the list of celebrities dressed by Vionnet included Zoe Saldaña Diane Kruger, Madonna, Natalie Portman
2012–2022 - The Ashkenazi Era
In May 2012, Kazakh-Russian businesswoman Goga Ashkenazi purchased a majority stake in the business[24] before to take full control of the label in November of the same year.[25]
From August 2012, Ashkenazi replaced the Croce sisters and assumed the creative direction of the label.[26] In October 2012, she celebrated the 100th year of the brand with a demi-couture collection paying homage to the house's signature design.[27]
In early January 2014, Vionnet announced hiring Hussein Chalayan to design the brand's demi-couture line.[28] A first show took place on January 21, 2014.[29]
Since 2023 - The ChimHaeres Era
In April 2023, the brand was acquired by ChimHaeres, a joint venture investment company owned by Chimera Abu Dhabi and Haeres Capital.[32][33]
