Early history
Barney Pressman initially opened a men's discount clothing store.[8] His first store was in a 500 sqft space with 20 ft of frontage at Seventh Avenue and West 17th Street in Manhattan in 1923. He raised the $500 to pay the lease by pawning his wife's engagement ring. Barney's Clothes were stocked with 40 brand name suits and a big sign with a slogan, "No Bunk, No Junk, No Imitations". Barney's sold clothing at discounted prices by purchasing showroom samples, retail overstocks, and manufacturers' closeouts at auctions and bankruptcy sales. He also offered free alterations and free parking to attract customers. And this first-of-its-kind store gained Barney Pressman numerous appearances on TV and radio shows.
Pressman claimed to be the first Manhattan retailer to use radio and television, beginning with "Calling All Men to Barney's" radio spots in the 1930s that parodied the introduction of the Dick Tracy show. He sponsored radio programs featuring Irish tenors and bands playing jigs to advertise Irish woolens. Women encased in barrels gave away matchbooks with the store name and address. He also chartered a boat to take 2,000 of his customers from Manhattan to Coney Island.
During the 1960s Barney Pressman's son, Fred, helped transition from a discount store to a luxury retailer."[8]
In a 1973 interview with Business Week, Fred Pressman stated that he became "convinced that the discount route definitely was not for us. My father and I have always hated cheap goods ... I didn't want to sell low-end merchandise. Now, many of those who chose to are verging on bankruptcy." Fred Pressman's obituary in The New York Times stated:
"With his father's blessing, Fred Pressman slowly transformed the store from a salty discount house that sold roast beef sandwiches in its pub to a purveyor of Italian designers with a cafe serving Perrier and light salads. He began to discard the types of suits that his father was prone to unearthing at auctions and bankruptcy sales, peppering the racks instead with then-obscure and top-name designers both, but continued to offer touches like free alterations that gave Barneys its reputation."
Pressman is quoted as saying, "The best value you can offer a customer is personal attention to every detail, and they will return again and again. Ultimately, the customer cares the most about how he or she is treated." Pressman died in July 1996.[9]
In 1970, Barney's built a fifth story onto its original building and a five-story addition. The original store was renamed America House and the addition was named International House. The expanded store occupied the entire Seventh Avenue block (between 16th and 17th streets), with 100000 sqft of selling space and 20 individual shops.
International House, Fred Pressman promised, would feature complete collections of European designers, "from denim pants to $250 suits", not just a watered-down "potpourri of fabrics and models". The renovated America House, he said, would hold merchandise from "manufacturers who are in effect designers".
By 1973, the store was stocking 60,000 suits. It carried the full lines of designers such as Bill Blass, Pierre Cardin, Christian Dior, and Hubert de Givenchy. It became the first clothing store in the U.S. to stock the full line of Giorgio Armani, after signing an agreement in 1976. Barneys is widely credited to have introduced Giorgio Armani to the American market.[9]
Women's clothing was introduced in 1976 on the third floor of the International House. In the following year, the women's store relocated to The Penthouse, a new top-level enclosure. Barney's also added housewares, cosmetics, and gift departments to the store. Also in 1977, Barney's in-store restaurant was renamed The Cafe and began selling salads, soup and sandwiches.
Barney's to Barneys
The company dropped the apostrophe in Barney's in 1981. In 1981, the women's penthouse became a duplex. Barneys imported 80% of the women's and 40% of the men's merchandise. The $25 million, 70000 sqft women's store finally opened in 1986 in a row of six townhouses and two larger adjacent buildings across the store along 17th Street. The addition included a unisex beauty salon and restaurant, antiques, and accessories, gifts, and housewares departments. It accounted for about one-third of Barneys' sales of some $90 million the following year.
In 1988, Barneys opened a 10000 sqft men's store in the World Financial Center. The store abandoned its Seventh Avenue flagship in 1997 four years after opening a new flagship 230000 sqft, Kohn Pedersen Fox-designed Manhattan store on Madison Avenue at East 61st Street. It was the largest new store in New York City since the Great Depression. The building has 22 floors with 14 floors of offices above the nine-story store. The wood floors, a marble mosaic on the lobby floor, gold-leaf ceilings, and lacquered walls of the new Barneys store cost $267 million.
In 1989, the store formed a holding company with Japanese department store Isetan to operate stores in both countries. The first Tokyo store opened in November 1990. The agreement also called for the holding company to spend $250,000,000 to open 30 smaller stores of approximately 6,500 sqft.[10][11]
1996 bankruptcy
In 1995, the Pressman family intended to close the investment relationship with Isetan consolidating the Barneys retail business and Isetan investment in the United States real estate for the Barneys flagship stores in New York, Chicago, and Beverly Hills. At the conclusion of this consolidation, the real estate investment and the retail businesses would be held in one company.
During the consolidation effort, Isetan's final funding of the real estate investment was intended to be processed through a Pressman family holding company, PREEN (Pressman Robert Eugene Elizabeth Nancy) and then directed to the real estate development. Instead of the funds flowing directly through the holding company to the real estate investment, they were given in exchange to BNY Licensing (another Pressman family company that held the Barneys trademarks) for the projected 50 year royalty stream due BNY Licensing from Isetan for their Barneys Japan business. Isetan was unaware of this transaction at the time.
Isetan had reported their investment in Barneys earlier in the year as a current asset expressing their intent and belief that it would be concluded in 1995/first quarter 1996. Isetan considered the handling of the final investment a breach in trust, and stopped efforts to consolidate the investment and the Pressman family business.
In December 1995, under the advice of John P. Campo of LeBeouf, Lamb, Greene & MacRae and Anthony Grillo of The Blackstone Group, the Pressmans recognizing that consolidating the investment and the business was no longer viable, voluntarily filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy. It was believed that, only in bankruptcy court, could the agreement between the Pressman family and Isetan be dismissed and a new agreement be negotiated. The strategy failed.
The company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in early January 1996. During the bankruptcy some stores shuttered, including Cleveland, Ohio; Costa Mesa, California; Dallas and Houston, Texas; and Short Hills, New Jersey. In subsequent years, management would re-enter some of these markets with larger flagship stores.
